Hiking on the CDT

Southbound on the Continental Divide Trail (CDT) near Monarch Pass

The first emblem stands for the Continental Divide Trail 

and the second one for the Colorado Trail

David and I have hiked several sections of the Continental Divide Trail (CDT) in New Mexico and Colorado and a couple of sections in Wyoming and Montana in past years when we traveled in the Rocky Mountains.  The CDT is probably the least well known of the "triple crown" hikes in the United States.  Most people have heard of the Appalachian Trail on the east coast and many know of the Pacific Crest Trail on the west coast.  But it is surprising how few know that you can roughly follow the Continental Divide on a 3,100-mile trail from the border of Mexico to the border of Canada.  Chances are very good that David and I will never make the journey from Mexico to Canada.  But we plan on adding new parts of the trail (for us) every time we travel west.   

Views to the north from the CDT southbound

A yellowbellied marmot poses for us

Not to be outdone, a golden-mantled squirrel poses too

While we were in the Monarch Pass area we hiked the CDT twice, one time going south from the pass towards New Mexico and the other hike was headed north towards the Collegiate Peaks in Colorado.  Then we hiked another section in far southern Colorado near Cumbres Pass.  

Our southern hike from Monarch Pass was on a very popular section of the trail that is also part of the Colorado Trail (CT).  The CT is a trail that runs 486 miles from Durango to Denver.  David and I tend to pick out trails that are in wilderness areas or are restricted to hikers and horseback riders but on this well-loved part of the shared CDT and CT bicycles are allowed.  

David waits for a cyclist to pass. 

There were many cyclist and most were extremely considerate and no problem for us, it just made for a very busy trail.  One group of cyclists had a drone hovering above filming their ride.  Modern technology!  I guess we shouldn’t have been surprised at the crowd as it is an easy part of the trail to reach.  And Monarch Pass is a popular stopping place for tourists.  There is even a gondola ride that takes tourists up for a view of the surrounding mountains. Fortunately, the crowded trail didn’t last long.  Most cyclists started early and flew past us, so after 10:30 the trail settled down to just a few of us slow hikers.

Great views from just above timberline

Monarch Pass is above 11,000 feet so it didn’t take us long to reach timberline.  In several places we had 360-degree views of all the surrounding mountains.  One barren slope had a small stand of bristlecone pines, a favorite tree of ours.  Bristlecones are some of the longest-lived trees in the world, some being over 4,000 years old like the intermountain bristlecones we saw in California a few years ago.  The Colorado bristlecone species on this trail are the shorter-lived of the bristlecones only reaching about 2,400 years old.  

A dead and live Colorado bristlecone pine

Alpine sunflower, one of my favorite alpine flowers

The next day we crossed Highway 50 and hiked northbound on the CDT.  Our experience was so different on this part of the trail.  The first mile was on a ski road that traversed the Monarch Mountain Ski Area and we didn’t see a soul on this part of the trail.  After we hiked past the ski area, the trail turned off the road and slowly wound through a spruce and fir forest which slowly gave way to a large bristlecone pine forest and then the trail went above timberline for many miles.  This section was restricted to foot and horse travel only and we only saw a few hikers. 

Alpine flowers struggle to grow and bloom above timberline.

We are careful not to get off the trail and damage these fragile flowers.

The hikers we met were Colorado Trail ‘thru-hikers,’ which meant they had started the trail earlier in the summer south of Denver at Waterton Canyon and were hiking all the way to Durango.  We talked to one hiker named Austin who was from Tennessee.  Austin was so happy because it looked like he was going to make it all the way to Durango.  When he started the trail 6 weeks ago, the fires near Durango were not contained and that part of the CT as well as much of the San Juan Forest had been closed.

On the northbound CDT we saw Waterdog Lakes from above.

We had had lunch on the shore below just two days ago.

Since Austin had bought his ticket and planned his hike months ago, there was nothing to do but start hiking and hope for the best.  Austin got off to a very rough start as it was 106 degrees the day he started on the CT and he came down with heat exhaustion on his second day.  He took a few days off to rest and started back on the trail with much more water in his pack.  When we talked with him he looked sunburned and pretty skinny, but he was happy to be only a few weeks away from his goal of finishing the CT.  David and I both admired his determination and bravery, hiking this trail alone in such a hot, dry and fire-prone year.  After finishing this adventure, Austin’s plans were to go back to Tennessee and go to nursing school.   We wished him our very best. 

Continental Divide Trail from Cumbres Pass

Cumbres-Toltec Scenic Train climbing the pass as seen from the CDT

Our last hike on the Continental Divide Trail was near the border of New Mexico near Cumbres Pass.  This part of the trail was a lot of fun because the Cumbres-Toltec Railroad, a narrow-gauge train that is now a tourist train, climbs through the pass in this area.  We were lucky to get glimpses of the train winding through the pass in several places.  As we returned from our hike and were heading back to camp, the train crossed the road right in front of us. Steam was bellowing and the whistle was blowing as the train chugged up the grade.  We’ve always wanted to ride this train and now we really want to because we’ve seen how beautiful the pass is.  The slopes are covered with aspens, so this would be a great train ride to take some fall.

This little train works hard through the pass spewing smoke and steam

We’ve crossed into New Mexico now and are making our way back to Texas.  It is going to be a hard adjustment as we are now totally spoiled to cool weather.  It’s been in the 50s most mornings and I am used to sleeping with blankets.  I don’t think that is going to be the case when we get back to Texas.  Anyhow, we have a few more days in the mountains before we head home so I just won’t think about the heat yet.

Scarlett gilia

Blue bells

David’s Stats:

Days Hiked   4  

Total Miles Hiked  25.5   
Ave. Miles per Day      6.38
Total Elevation Gain     4,000
Ave. Elevation Gain per day  1,000 

Monarch Days

The Collegiate Peaks from Buena Vista

Mt. Yale is the tallest mountain

Selfie at Monarch Pass

Monarch Park is a lightly used campground tucked back off the highway just below the summit of Monarch Pass at 11,312 feet of elevation.  We discovered it last year and were so enchanted with its seclusion that we wanted to return.  After a gorgeous sunrise in Buena Vista with views of the morning sun on the Collegiate Peaks from our RV, we had a short drive to Monarch Pass.  As it was not a weekend, we weren’t really expecting a problem finding a campsite.  But this has been an odd year with the fires, forest closures and hot temperatures.  For all we knew, most of Denver might be trying to escape the 100-degree temperatures and be heading for the forest this week.  

A group of women hikers we met on the trail

They called themselves the 'Huff n Puffs' and you had to be at leas  55 to join.

David was an honorary member, for a few minutes anyway.

Some of the best columbines I've seen this year in Colorado

Last year the columbines were so profuse, but not so this year

As it turned out, we were in luck and found a campsite with great views of the peaceful valley and its small lake nestled in the closely surrounding Rocky Mountains.  We heard rumbles of thunder as we were setting up camp and settled in for a rainy afternoon of reading and relaxing.  I was glad I had left over black bean chili in the refrigerator.  It cooled off so much that we were happy to have chili for dinner.

View of Monarch Park from our RV

Our beautiful campsite, the valley and lake view is on the other side of Silver

The next morning we took the trail to Waterdog Lakes.  We hiked this trail last year during the last week in June.  Then there was a lot of snow on the ground in late June and we couldn't reach the Upper Waterdog Lake.  Being a few weeks later in the season, we didn't expect much if any snow, and we were able to reach the upper lake.  Both lakes were at lower water levels this year.  The light snow and lack of rain plus the hot weather made a difference.  Still, it was a nice hike and wild flowers were in bloom.  The recent rains have really helped.

Relaxing after lunch at Upper Waterdog Lake

Notice David still has on his fleece jacket.  It was cool by the lake.

We spent the rest of the week hiking different sections of the Continental Divide Trail, much of it above timberline.  We had a great time!  The next blog will be all about that.  We have very slow internet right now and I am having a hard time getting this post published.  Look forward to many more photos and stories about the CDT in a few more days.

Lower Waterdog Lake

Lots of dead spruce along the shores.

The spruce bark beetle is doing a lot of damage in this area of Colorado.

Tansy Aster

"Massive" Moments

Mt. Massive from the shores of Turquoise Lake

Storm brewing over Mt. Massive

Mt. Massive Wilderness

About 10 miles west southwest of Leadville looms Mt. Massive, the third highest peak in the lower 48 states.  At 14,429 feet, only Mt. Elbert, also in Colorado, and Mt. Whitney in California stand higher.  Mt. Massive also has another distinction among the ‘Fourteeners’ (peaks over 14,000 feet that many mountaineers aspire to climb).  This famous ‘fourteener’ is the most massive of all.  Mt. Massive is really more than one peak, it is a ridge of peaks over three miles long.  There are five peaks in all, each standing at over 14,000 feet. From our campground by Turquoise Lake to the hikes we’ve taken to our scenic train trip from downtown Leadville, Mt. Massive dominated our landscape.

One of the old engines at the train station in Leadville

David 'leans' into the curve in the open car

Our week was filled with pleasantly warm days (not hot), many afternoon rain showers and cool nights in the 50s.  One day David and I went into Leadville with camping buddy Melissa, for a 2 ½ ride on the Leadville Colorado and Southern Railroad.  Dustin had to work and couldn’t go with us.  Dustin is in IT and gets to work remotely so he and Rocky stayed at camp.  I guess if you must work, doing so from your Airstream by the shore of Lake Turquoise is no bad deal.  We had a perfect day for a train ride and we sat in one of the open cars, so our views were spectacular.  We saw much of Leadville as we rode along and then the train wound its way up to an old water tower and a deserted mine.  That night we grilled steaks and had a fine dinner by the lake.

The old train water tower

Enjoying the ride in one of the closed cars

Open cars are much more fun!

We had 5 hikes this week, so David will have his “statistics” for the first time this year.  One of the hikes we did last year while we were here, but the other 4 hikes were new to us.  They were all great but the hike to Native Lake in the Mt. Massive Wilderness was perhaps our favorite.  The trail took us above the timberline and the views of Mt. Massive with storm clouds rolling in were spectacular.

Mt. Massive and Native Lake behind us

Mt. Massive Wilderness

David on the Native Lake Trail in the Mt. Massive Wilderness

Picturesque 'tarns' with Mt. Massive behind

Tarns are lakes that are above timberline

Another nice hike we had was around Twin Lakes to Inter-Laken, an old resort from the early 1900s.  The sight is deserted now but some of the buildings are being restored.  Many wealthy people spent the summer in a remote mountain setting by a picturesque lake.  Entertainment came from Leadville a few times a week and music, opera and theatre were provided for guests.  The resort was also open part of the winter and then guests would arrive by lake but instead of a boat, it would be a sleigh ride across the frozen lake.  What times those were!  I am sure it was not easy to get all the supplies, horses, laborers, etc. out to that remote location to provide the luxurious accommodations.  It was fun to walk the grounds and imagine the lives of those who spent their summers there.

The Dexter cabin at Inter-Laken

This is where the family that owned the Inter-Laken resort lived.

The main lodge at Inter-Laken

Inter-Laken means between the lakes which describes the place well

After such a fun week, we spent a couple of nights in Buena Vista.  We had wanted to go to Cottonwood Pass and do some hiking up in the high country above timberline, but the road to the pass is closed this year to be repaved.  So, after chores and grocery shopping we are off this morning.  We aren’t quite sure where we will wind up as we have no reservations, but Monarch Park is our hopeful destination. 

The Twin Lakes trail to Inter-Laken is also part of the Colorado Trail and 

Continental Divide Trail systems.

"Water cloud" reflections in Twin Lakes

David’s Stats:

Days Hiked   5

Total Miles Hiked    31.5
Ave. Miles per Day      6.3
Total Elevation Gain     3,570
Ave. Elevation Gain per day  714 

Reflections and Blooms

Turquoise Lake near Leadville Colorado

Molly Brown Campground

It has been a very dry year in Colorado, yet there are still some wildflowers.  Nature always gives her best and though the drought has made blooming more difficult; many meadows are beginning to put on a show.  The flowers are smaller and fewer, but they are bright with color.

Pink Indian Paintbrush

Turquoise Lake is feeling the drought too with water levels a little lower than last year.  Still it has been a beautiful week camping around this lovely lake.  Fire restrictions are in place and no campfires are allowed.  But that just makes more time for sitting or strolling by the lake.  We’ve enjoyed two meals with our camping buddies, Dustin, Melissa and Rocky, some hikes and a train ride.  I’ll talk more about those things later but in the meantime, here are a few photos from the week.

Rocky, Dustin, Melissa and David posing by their Airstream

Another 'Turquoise' morning

Purple aster and paintbrush

Arnica

'Water Clouds' in Turquoise Lake

Tall Chiming Bells are such sweet little flowers

Brook Cress can always be counted on by mountain streams

Fishing should not be made too difficult

Evening comes to the lake...

Fire, Rain and Wind

Extreme Fire Danger!

We are back on the road -- at least for a few weeks.  It feels so good to be riding in Silver (our RV) on the highway in search of a beautiful place to camp and some new adventures.  We both loved our time on the road when Silver was the only home we had.  Such freedom.  Severe weather or forest fires were our only limiting factors.  There were some backroads that were best left to 4-wheel drive vehicles and not for Silver to roam.  And a few places that Maya was not allowed.  But those were our only limitations.

Yellow coneflowers were gorgeous in Santa Fe

It does feel strange and a bit sad not traveling with our Maya this season.  We really miss her, although in some ways she is with us especially now that we are on the road again.  Both of us have remarked this week how much it feels like she is right here with us and that makes us smile.

Our first stop was Santa Fe because it is a tradition when traveling west and also it is a great place to begin a mountain adventure.  We got a little acclimated to the higher elevation and filled up on some great food.  Santa Fe has an amazing variety of food, although for us New Mexican food is a must. 

Harry's Roadhouse -- a great place to eat in Santa Fe

Grilled Chicken Tostado at Harry's

We took it easy in Santa Fe resting up from a week of celebrating anniversaries and July 4th at my parent’s house.  Another reason we took it easy was we couldn’t hike in the Santa Fe or Carson National Forests as both were closed because of extreme fire danger.  So, chilling out, eating out and a little sightseeing was what we did.

The church at the Pecos National Historical Park

We made a day trip over to the Pecos National Historical Park.  Last year when we visited it was extra hot and we had Maya with us, so we limited our time there.  This time the day was beautiful with clouds building up even as we arrived around 10 am.  We hoped the monsoons were on their way.  A ranger led us and two other couples on a fantastic tour of the monument and we did learn new things about the Pueblo Indian community of the Pecos. 

This summer is reminding us a lot of our first summer on the road in 2012.  Fires were a big problem that year and this one is no different.  There is a fire near Cimarron, NM and the Philmont Boy Scout Ranch that has been burning since early May.  Just across the border into Colorado, the Spring Creek Fire, the 2^nd largest fire in Colorado history is burning away.  The 416 Fire near Durango is mostly out but not completely plus there are many smaller fires burning in both New Mexico and Colorado -- not to mention many other western states.  It is going to be a bad fire year.  

Entering the Kiva

Ranger Eric gave us a great tour.  

Inside the Kiva

Kiva with no cover

Our plans are to stay clear of fires.  We left Santa Fe yesterday and drove to Leadville, Colorado.  We have a campsite at Turquoise Lake for the next week.  There are no fires very close to this area so keep your fingers crossed for us.  We were here last year and just loved it.  The elevation is near 10,000 feet and though the days may warm up to the high 70s, the nights are cool.  We had a nice rain yesterday afternoon on the way up and light rains during the night.  It was 51 degrees in the RV this morning.  Life is good!

Phone service and internet are very spotty, but I am going into Leadville this afternoon and try to post this blog.  I may not have another post until next week but hopefully there will be new things to report on.  Until then…

Cane Cholla blooming