Wednesday, September 25, 2013

Niagara Falls

Niagara Falls with Horseshoe Falls and Canada in the background

 There are waterfalls and then there are WATERFALLS!  Until you experience Niagara Falls up close and personal, it is hard to imagine the grandeur and power of four to six million cubic feet per minute roaring down over 173 feet.  I can’t even think of adjectives to describe it – amazing, fantastic, spectacular – just don’t do the falls justice.

'Maid of the Mist' boat cruising by the American Falls

The capstone of the American Falls has been undercut causing
some collapse and the many large boulders at the base


The Niagara River drains out of Lake Erie and travels 35 miles to Lake Ontario.  Along the way over 200 feet in elevation is lost, most of it right at the end of the journey thus creating Niagara Falls. Niagara Falls is really three falls, the American Falls and much smaller Bridal Veil Falls on the American side of the river and the larger Horseshoe Falls on the Canadian side.  173 feet is not that tall for a large waterfall, but the true magnificence is how extensive the falls are.  Niagara is 1,060 feet wide and Horseshoe is 2,600 feet wide and considered the most powerful waterfall in North America.
 
The Canadian Horseshoe Falls with the 'Maid of the Mist' boat
 
Rim of Horseshoe Falls
 
Side view of Horseshoe Falls
 
 
The falls themselves are truly ‘World Wonders’ and will not disappoint but all the development and Las Vegas-like feel around the falls can be a distraction.  Established in 1885, Niagara Falls is the oldest state park in the United States and it is not realistic to think it would remain untouched and pristine.  Being a ‘honeymoon destination’ for so long, development was inevitable, but I could have wished for a few less trinket shops and fast food places.
 
On the Canadian side...
 
A partial view of Horseshoe Falls
 
We didn’t have ideal weather conditions the two days we were at the falls.  One day was overcast and windy, so there was a lot of mist around both falls.  The next day it poured down raining all day.  But we managed to visit the falls from both the American and Canadian sides and get a few good photos.  The Canadian side had the better views of both falls and was better landscaped and cleaner.  But that could have been because there was a renovation project on the American side with a lot of construction.   Maya loved walking near the falls and getting sprayed with mist.  We all worked up a bit of an appetite and of course there is only one thing to be done for that – ice cream.


David and I are the ones in the blue ponchos
 
At the top of the American Falls


 
David’s Stats:
Days Hiked  1
Rain Days    1
Total Miles Hiked   5.24
Total Elevation Gain     263 








 

Saturday, September 21, 2013

New York and the Finger Lakes


Taughannock Falls near Ithaca, NY

Eleven long thin lakes spread across the heart of New York, like fingers (with an extra one thrown in for good measure). But the pristine lakes are not the only feature of this spectacular scenery.  Steep valleys and deep gorges create hundreds of waterfalls and cascades throughout the region.  This geology was made possible by lots and lots of ice in the form of mile-high glaciers and subsequently, thousands of years of erosion. 
 
Cascade on gorge trail at Buttermilk Falls State Park
  
Our first stop in the Finger Lakes was Robert Treman State Park just four miles south of Ithaca, NY and at the southern end of Cayuga Lake.  We stayed three days in the park and from there visited Ithaca and Cornell University, hiked in three state parks, saw seven large waterfalls and numerous cascades and  explored the scenic wine trails around the Finger Lakes that showcase some of the nation's premier vineyards.


Treman State Park
Enfield Falls - top spot for waterfall swimming 
 
 
115 foot Lucifer Falls
 
Another falls along the gorge trail
 
 
Ithaca has a slogan, “Ithaca is Gorges.”  So true!   Within the city limits are eight gorgeous waterfalls.  We were impressed with Ithaca’s natural beauty, its lovely downtown area and Cornell University with its huge campus and many renowned programs.  The legendary Moosewood Restaurant which inspired a series of cookbooks for whole food fans is located in Ithaca.  The city has a lot to recommend it!

Watkins Glen State Park
The narrow and beautiful 'glen' 
 
Behind the waterfall
 

We moved over one ‘finger’ to Seneca Lake and Watkins Glen State Park. Watkins Glen is the oldest and most famous of the Finger Lakes State Parks boasting a beautiful glen steepened by glaciers and carved by Glen Creek.  The result is an isolated, narrow gorge with 19 glistening waterfalls and cascades, some of which visitors can walk behind on the gorge trail.  It was a little crowded on the trail the day we hiked, but I loved seeing the kids marvel and squeal at walking behind waterfalls.  Nature can make some pretty cool ‘theme parks’ all by herself.


Letchworth State Park
The Genesee River Gorge
 
 
"The Grand Canyon of the East"
 

Our last stop in the Finger Lakes Region was Letchworth State Park, called by many “the Grand Canyon of the East.” The Genesee River cuts through this magnificent gorge containing three major waterfalls, one being 107 feet high.  With over 14,000 acres of magnificent scenery, the park is also recognized as a New York State Birding Conservation Area.


Beautiful Middle Falls
 
Lower Falls on the Genesee River
 

Letchworth State Park was once native land of the Seneca Indians.  In the mid 1800’s, William P. Letchworth purchased and preserved 1,000 acres of this national treasure and eventually deeded it over to the State of New York for future generations to enjoy.  In his later years he worked relentlessly to preserve the Native American history of the Genesee Valley.  The Seneca Indians honored Letchworth by calling him Hai-wa-ye-is-tah, or “he who does the right thing.”  It is inspiring that there are a few out there that 'do the right thing.'
 
 


David’s Stats:
Days Hiked    5
Rain Days   4
Total Miles Hiked    27.82
Ave. Miles per Day      5.56
Total Elevation Gain   4,142      
Ave. Elevation Gain per day    828

 

Sunday, September 15, 2013

Labor Day and Time in Vermont


Quechee River Gorge from bridge near White River Junction, VT


The Thursday before Labor Day we left the White Mountains in New Hampshire to meet a friend near Poultney, Vermont for the holiday.  On the way, we spent one night in the very lovely Quechee Gorge State Park on the eastern border of Vermont near White River Junction.  The focal point of the park is Vermont’s deepest gorge, formed by glacial activity more than 13,000 years ago.  We walked the gorge trail along the Ottauquechee River enjoying views of the gorge from river level to the bridge more than 165 feet above.  The campground at the state park was one of the best we’ve experienced and we could see why it won first place in last year’s contest for best Vermont State Park.
 
The forest is full of fantastic fungi this time of year

 
 
Just a few hours’ drive on Friday and we arrived at our campground near Poultney.  The campground on Lake Bomoseen was packed with Labor Day campers – I don’t think there was an empty site.  Labor Day is the last summer camping opportunity for most families and in the northern states especially, cold weather is not far away.  We were glad we made reservations.


An old marble quarry we passed while touring
 
The weather was cool with many rainy days but it was excellent during the time we spent with our friend Sasha.  Labor Day Monday was our first day together and we went on a tour of the area with a mission of finding Sasha’s favorite maple syrup.  Spoiler alert:  if you are friend or family of Sasha’s you might be getting maple syrup for Christmas.  I bought some more Vermont Green Mountain Coffee - the breakfast blend is so good.  We also toured Green Mountain College where Sasha will be earning her graduate degree.

Tuesday we all had a nice hike on a short section of the Appalachian Trail.  Sasha and her husband, KC, were ‘thru-hikers’ on the AT in 1999 and the trail is very special to them.  It was so much fun to hike with Sasha and hear some of her adventures on the AT.  We all had a grand time playing 'naturalist' and trying to identify the plants and fungi all the way. 


 
Maya, Sasha & David on the AT near Little Pond
 

Sasha had graduate school orientation to attend for the next several days. While she was doing that, David and I moved about 30 miles away to Gifford Woods State Park so we could explore another beautiful place in Vermont.  The Appalachian Trail went through the park and we hiked north one day and then south the next.  Both were great hikes, the northbound section went around a lake and then along a river with many cascades and the southbound section climbed Sherburne pass and gave us some great views of the Green Mountains.

Cascades along the AT north of Gifford Woods State Park


On Saturday we met Sasha again to hear all about her orientation at Green Mountain College.  We had dinner at a local diner and talked and talked.  Sasha’s will be working towards an on-line Master’s in Environmental Science and her emphasis will be on science writing.  It sounds like a great program and it was good to see her so excited.

 
The 'Birdseye' Diner - pretty good burgers...
 

Sasha headed back to Texas on Sunday and on Tuesday we left Vermont for the Finger Lakes Region of New York.  We have a few weeks before the leaves really start to turn, so we thought we would check out the Finger Lakes and then go to Niagara Falls.  We’ve always wanted to visit Niagara Falls…  
 
Waiting on Cindy as usual...
          


David’s Stats:
Days Hiked    5
Rain Days      7
Total Miles Hiked    24.22
Ave. Miles per Day      4.84
Total Elevation Gain       4,072
Ave. Elevation Gain per day   814


 
 

Thursday, September 12, 2013

Tales of the Trail


View from Appalachian Trail at Height of Land overlook in Maine


Lately in New England as we have been ‘sampling’ sections of the Appalachian Trail, we have seen many groups of ‘thru-hikers’ nearing the end of their long journey.  As October approaches, the northbound AT hikers must reach Baxter State Park in Maine and summit Mt. Katahdin before the trail closes on October 15 or they will be unable to finish the trail this year.
 
Near the beginning of the AT in Georgia back in early spring
   
There are so many different hikers of diverse ages and backgrounds that attempt this arduous adventure every year.  I’m sure the ‘gist’ of everyone’s hiking story is similar.  A long and difficult journey begins with much hope yet no assurance of the outcome. Hardships are many and challenges are often unexpected.  Weather can be brutal.  But there is help along the way and friendships are made.  Some will prevail, others will not.  But all will have a life changing experience.  We have been privileged this year to hike sections of the AT and hear a few ‘tales of the trail.’


 
On the Appalachian Trail near summit of Blood Mountain, Georgia


In Maine we met one hiker in his late 60s on the trail.  He was just about to reach 2,000 miles hiked on the AT.  Using hiking poles and moving slowly but steadily, both of his knees were wrapped.  He told us he usually hiked 10 or 12 miles a day, but he never had a ‘zero’ day.  He hiked at least a few miles every day.  He started in Georgia in early February and said he had a crash course in winter camping.  This year the winter was particularly brutal and spring was late. A couple of nights he thought he was going to freeze to death. But when we met him he was just 230 miles from Mt. Katahdin and thought he would finish the trail by the end of September.

In contrast, we met Snickers (his trail name) in New Hampshire just 20 miles from the Maine border.  He was only a week behind the 60 year-old but he had started the AT the first of May (3 months later!) and was on schedule to finish before the end of September.  His average was about 30 miles a day.  Snickers had 24 year-old knees, no injuries and hiked without poles.
 
Checking out the AT shelter at Rattle River, New Hampshire
 

One day in Maine, we were stopped at an overlook where the AT crossed a high pass.  We were scouting it out for a possible hike when a couple who were also stopped there noticed our Texas license plates and started talking to us.  Geoff and Tina were from Washington D.C., but Geoff had gone to high school in Midland, TX.  We all laughed at the coincidence as David and I grew up 20 miles away in Odessa.

We learned that their college son was an AT hiker but had gotten Lyme disease and finally had become too weak and sick in Vermont and had to give up his dream of finishing this year.  It was a big disappointment, but Twigs (again, his trail name) came home to recover.  Feeling much better now, he is going to meet his parents in a couple of weeks to summit Mt. Katahdin and make the last hike on the AT before heading back to college.  Next summer Twigs will complete the parts of the trail he didn’t finish this year.


Near the top of Mt. Washington in New Hampshire

We made plans to meet Geoff and Tina for dinner a couple of nights later and had a great evening talking of many things but again tales of the AT dominated the conversation.  Geoff said he had been very skeptical for his son to take a semester off from college to hike the AT but Tina was all for it.   They sent their son off alone in March waving goodbye to their boy at Springer Mountain, Georgia.  Later in the summer they welcomed home a man.

 Many hikers start out on the trail alone but quickly make friends.  Twigs, like most AT hikers, soon had a ‘trail family,’ hikers that more or less travel along together and look out for each other.  Late one day in early spring a cold front blew in and Twigs became so cold that he was hypothermic.  One of his trail family recognized that Twigs was in danger and made him sleep in his tent that night so he could get warmer.  Without someone looking out for him, Twigs might have died.  There have been a couple of deaths this year on the AT from hypothermia.
 
"Inchworm" Missing...

On a very sad note, there is a hiker that is missing.  In late July we heard about ‘Inchworm,’ a 66 year-old woman hiking the AT.  She was to meet her husband at a highway crossing in Maine for resupplies but never showed.  She was seen the day before she disappeared.  Inchworm was a very experienced hiker and was carrying extra food.  Professional searchers and the local AT community searched continuously for her until just recently.  When we were in Maine 2 weeks ago, her posters were still up along the trail and in nearby towns in hope that someone might still find her.  Only 1% of AT hikers become lost and nearly all are found within 48 hours.  Inchworm is still missing…

We have passed a few Gulf War Veterans hiking the AT.  They are usually pretty intense and don’t stop.  Hopefully, nature will work her magic and they will find the peace they need on the trail.  We have also seen a few ‘characters’ along the way.  There was ‘Brohawk,’ a late twenty-something guy with a very cool Mohawk haircut.  Then there was the Canadian with his flag and large plastic pink flamingo tied to his backpack. I know it didn’t weigh much, but to carry a pink flamingo over 2,000 miles…


White AT blaze marks the trail on rocky section

We heard about Hans, an 87 year-old mountaineer from Germany.  He is the oldest thru-hiker on the AT this year and maybe one of the oldest to ever hike it.  Hans is hiking alone and other AT hikers have told us he is in pretty amazing physical shape for his age, but he sometimes gets lost and has been found by those who know him to be hiking south on the trail when he should be going north.  I cannot fathom hiking over 2,000 miles alone at age 87.  Most of us will be lucky to be walking to the bathroom alone at 87.  We sure hope he continues to head north and completes the AT safely.
 
Gifts from Trail Angels
 
The AT community is really supportive of its hikers and there are many ‘Trail Angels’ along the way.  We have heard heartwarming stories of people who stop and give hikers rides into town to buy groceries, give them food or even take hikers into their homes for a good meal, a shower and a night’s sleep in a real bed.  Some Trail Angels put food or drinks out at trail intersections.  A few grill burgers and hot dogs at trail head areas to feed the thru-hikers.  Twigs’ parents were being Trail Angels when we met them.  They had an ice chest and were putting out cold drinks for the hikers because their son had told them how much a cold ice tea, soda or even water can mean to a tired hiker.

These are just a few of the stories we have heard this season as we have been following the AT north.  There are likely as many more as there are hikers.  Our wish for all the hikers is the adventure of a lifetime and then to arrive home safely.


AT near Clingman's Dome in Smoky Mountains
 

 
 

Monday, September 9, 2013

Back to New Hampshire


Sabbaday Falls, White Mountain National Forest


When we passed through New Hampshire a month ago on our way to Maine, we knew we wanted to spend more time in the White Mountain National Forest.  With the Presidential Mountain Range, the Appalachian Trail and other trails, two wilderness areas and a scenic highway – the White Mountains called us back and we went.


Covered Bridge over the Swift River near the Kancamagus Highway
 
 
Our first hike was on the Appalachian Trail along the Rattle River near Gorham.  On the first half of our hike we had the trail completely to ourselves, or so we thought.  Maya knew better.  She was excited and sniffing the air and soon alerted us to the fact that we had a young black bear ambling along the side of the trail nearest the river.  We caught several glimpses of the bear through the trees as we carefully proceeded.  Once he even crossed the trail not 25 yards ahead of us.  We were a little concerned that the bear was so obviously unconcerned about us, but then he decided that he didn’t want to be that close to us anymore and loped away.  While we loved seeing a bear so close, it was best for all concerned that he stayed afraid of humans.


Glacial 'erratics' or large boulder left by glaciers


On the last part of our hike we started seeing a few individuals and small groups of 2 - 3 hikers.  We spoke to a few of them and learned that they were indeed ‘thru-hikers.’  (Many thru-hikers don’t like to stop long or stop at all.  They have a goal of 15 or more miles they are trying to hike in a day and unless it is near a break time, they don’t have time to talk.) At this point on the trail the AT hikers had all just finished the Presidential Range, one of the highest and most difficult sections of the AT.  We well remembered being on top of Mt. Washington a month ago and how rocky and steep it was.  The hikers were all feeling pretty good to have that section behind them and to be so close to Maine and nearing their goal of finishing the AT. 
 
Mt. Hedgehog Trail with view of Mt. Potash
 
Over the next 5 days, we stayed in a quiet National Forest campground along Scenic Byway 112, the Kancamagus Highway.  This area was so beautiful and remote with gorgeous views of the Presidential Mountain Range, waterfalls, lakes and rivers for the price of some foot effort and sweat.  We hiked every day and did our best to see it all and soak up the glory of the forest. 


Rocky Gorge with view of the Presidential Mountain Range
 

I guess we were feeling a little jealous of all the ‘fun’ the AT hikers were having, so on our last day we decided to hike a very difficult section of the AT through Franconia Notch.  Really, I don’t know what we were thinking or if we even were.  When we got back down, we both were wondering why we thought hiking nearly 9 miles and climbing over 3,000 feet (the majority of that elevation being gained in about 3 miles, basically up the side of a very steep and rocky slope) would be so much fun.  And oh, did I mention the pouring rain that started just as we were heading down that rocky mountain?  The first half of the hike we were soaked with sweat from the effort and the last half we were soaked with rain. 
 
White blaze on the tree trunk marks the AT
 
Mist after the rain...
 
It truly was a beautiful hike but coming down that steep, steep trail with those rain-slick rocks and poor footing made our knees and ankles so sore.  Fortunately, we had only minor slips and slides on the trail and no hard falls. The  day after was not pretty.  Again, we gained new appreciation of the difficulty and effort that AT thru-hikers experience.   We could rest and moan the next day rather than hike another 15 - 20 miles.  Was it worth it, you may ask.  Ask again in a few more weeks…  With the exception of that last hike, our time in the White Mountains of New Hampshire was idyllic.  And still we left much undone, many reasons to return.
 
Ask Maya how she liked the rainy hike
 


David’s Stats:
Days Hiked   6
Rain Days    1- but we hiked anyway
Total Miles Hiked   37.22
Ave. Miles per Day      6.04
Total Elevation Gain       10,007
Ave. Elevation Gain per day   1,641
 

Sunday, September 8, 2013

Portland to Camden to Rangeley




We could have easily enjoyed the rest of the summer in Acadia (really we do recommend a long stay) but our car was repaired and we were ready to have it back.  Fondly, we said goodbye to Acadia as the rain started pouring down.  The rain made for a long trip to Portland, but we arrived in time to pick up the car before closing time.  We spent two nights in a nice commercial campground south of Portland in Kennebunkport. That gave us time to get all our laundry done after so much fun in Acadia and a chance to go back one more time to the Maine Diner.  Yes, the lobster pie really was that good.
 
Camden Harbor from Mount Battie
 
Sunday morning we left Kennebunkport and headed north along the coast on Highway 1 to Rockport and Camden with a quick stop at L.L. Bean.  The ‘flagship’ store is located in Freeport and we had to visit the place we have helped keep in business so long.  Really there is a whole complex of stores – one for camping gear, one for clothes, one for fishing and hunting gear.  They just needed a campground and we could have spent days ‘hiking’ through the stores. 
 
Downtown Camden
 
We escaped without spending too much money and arrived at Camden Hills State Park a few hours later.  The park is located on the shores of Penobscot Bay and overlooks Camden.  We enjoyed a leisurely 3 days in the area hiking the high cliffs and ledges along the coastline and strolling the picturesque towns of nearby Rockport and Camden. 


Civilian Conservation Corp tower at Camden Hills State Park
Those CCC boys built so many great structures in our parks.
 
Ships and ducks at Camden Harbor


Getting our car scrape repaired slowed us down a bit and because we had plans in Vermont for Labor Day, we decided not to go into New Brunswick and Nova Scotia this trip. It would have made things too rushed and we have gotten accustomed to a slower traveling pace.  Maybe next year we will travel across Canada?
 
Cascade Gorge Falls near Rangeley Lake State Park
 

Instead of Canada, we decided we would go to northern Maine for a week to experience a different part of the state.  Originally we thought visiting Baxter State Park, the site of Mt. Katadin and the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail, would be a must.  But we discovered that Baxter State Park was not dog friendly at all.  Dogs are not even allowed in the park.  Rangeley Lake State Park, about 220  Appalachian Trail miles from Mt. Katadin, was dog friendly and had several sections of the AT nearby that we could hike.  So we left the mountains and the sea and headed for the mountains and the lakes.
 
High mountain pass with view of Lake Mooselookmeguntic
 
Nestled in the heart of western Maine’s mountains and surrounded by five large lakes (my favorite being Lake Mooselookmeguntic, what a name!) Rangeley Lake State Park is right in the middle of some great country.  We hiked to nearby peaks with gorgeous views of those five lakes. Although moose had been sighted in the park just before we arrived, we had no luck.  But we did hear loons at dusk.  


Piazza Rock just off the Appalachian Trail

Hiking on the AT again...


It was great to be hiking again along the AT after almost a month.  We hiked two different sections and encountered several ‘thru-hikers’ that were about to get their 2,000 mile patch.  And they would be finishing the AT in the next 2 – 4 weeks depending on their pace.  Can you really imagine hiking 2,000 miles?  David and I sure have a better picture of it now and it makes our 50 – 60 mile backpacking trips seem like a walk around the block.
 
Bunchberry
 

David’s Stats:
Days Hiked   5
Rain Days    1
Total Miles Hiked   23.94
Ave. Miles per Day      4.79
Total Elevation Gain       5,934
Ave. Elevation Gain per day  1,187