Sunday, June 12, 2016

Wild Roads, Wildflowers, Wild Water and Snow


Heartleaf Arnica growing along Santa Barbara Creek


The northern section of the Pecos Wilderness is in the Carson National Forest and its entry points are generally a littler higher in elevation than the Santa Fe National Forest portion.  Our plan was to stay at one of two campgrounds – either Santa Barbara or Agua Piedra after checking conditions at the ranger station in Penasco.  The drive was supposed to be an easy one of about 2 hours from Santa Fe.  And it would have been if we hadn’t missed our turn onto State Hwy 98, part of the “High Road to Taos.”  (In our travels, we have found that highway signs are often not as clear and well-placed as we would like them.)  By the time we saw this sign, we were already passed it and there was no place to turn our RV around. The road we were on would still get us where we were going, it just looked very small and crooked on the map and if it looked that way on the map, well, that could be scary.  


The spring-swollen Santa Barbara Creek overflowing into the trail


We drove on hoping for a turnaround place and as that did not materialize, we just started hoping that the road would not get any narrower than it already was.  But that was not to be.  The road twisted and turned and climbed and finally got so narrow through this one little village of Cundiyo that I swear I could have put my arm out the window and touched the sides of some of the houses as we drove by.  It was absolutely the narrowest one lane road I have ever been on in our RV. 

All we could think was that we better not meet anyone coming down this crazy road we were going up.  What would we do?  There was no place to pull over and towing our car, we could not back up.  Maya and I started thinking about what color flowers we wanted on our road side memorial.  But thankfully disaster was averted and we met no one until we were nearly at the top and there was a small place to pull over. Right after that, we joined with the “High Road to Taos” which was itself a curvy road, but we felt like we were back on the freeway.  Silver was never worried and she handled like a dream through it all.  Once again David and I were grateful for our amazing little RV.


The roaring Santa Barbara near our campsite

Maya gets a little too close for comfort and mom makes her get out


The lady at the ranger station in Penasco told us that the Agua Piedra Campground had no water so Santa Barbara was where we headed.  It was a warm afternoon of 82 when we arrived but within an hour the clouds rolled in and we had a wonderful little afternoon thunderstorm.  We read books, listened to the rain and made a late lunch.  By sunset we were back to being mellow and looking forward to a peaceful night next to Santa Barbara Creek.  Snow melt and recent rains had the Santa Barbara almost roaring but it still made for nice sleeping.


Trampas Creek


The next morning, we took a short drive to the Trampas Creek trailhead hoping to reach one of the Trampas Lakes or perhaps Hidden Lake.  But after a couple of miles, the stream crossings started to be more challenging.  Log bridges were out and in most cases we had to cross on piled up logs and rocks that were not very steady considering the swiftness of the spring swollen Trampas Creek.  Then we hit one crossing where the water was several feet deep and there was nothing steady enough to walk or hop across on.  We did not want to wade/swim in that cold water.  Even Maya wasn't eager to go in, so we had lunch in the sweet little aspen meadow by the creek and then walked back enjoying the spring wildflowers.  The wildflowers were fabulous along the creek and in the meadows.  It was just a little early in the season to make it to the lakes.  We will try again another day.


Canada Violets along Trampas Creek

Dandelion field heading up the Serpent Lake Trail


The next day we thought we would take the Serpent Lake Trail as it was not near any big creeks and mostly a mountain climb.  We should be able to reach that lake, right?  Well, things started out fine anyway.  We walked through a beautiful meadow of blooming dandelions and into the forest.  For about two miles it was a steady climb with some steep switchbacks but then at about 10,800 feet we started seeing more and more snow.  When there wasn’t snow in the trail, the trail itself was running like a small creek from all the snow melt.  We were either walking in water or slogging through snow.


Snowy Trail

Cooling the water bottles at lunch



We continued on as the snow drifts became bigger and bigger covering most of the trail.  According to David’s GPS we were at 11,800 feet and only about a third of a mile from the lake but we decided to turn back.  It was just too hard plowing through the snow without snowshoes. Those waterproof boots and gators only help so much and we were all getting wet and cold.  Maya loved it for a while but even she was struggling and sinking to her shoulders in the snow.  Thwarted again, no lake!  I guess early June has its hazards in the Pecos Wilderness – swollen creeks and/or snow can be quite the obstacles.


Had enough!


Our third day we got an early start and hiked the Middle Fork of the Santa Barbara Trail right from our campground.  As I have already mentioned, Santa Barbara Creek was flowing very strong, but the trail map promised only one crossing in the first few miles and we were hoping for a bridge.  Yay!  There was one. 


A big bridge is a joy to behold when waters are raging...


This trail was delightful and there were so many wildflowers – Western Red Columbine, Canada Violet, Mountain Lupine, Tall Chiming Bells, Mountain Iris, Rock Clematis, Rosy Pussytoes, Marsh Marigold and Heartleaf Arnica just to name the ones I know.  Early June is a great time to see wildflowers.



I'd turn back if I were you...  And we did!

We ran into some backpackers who did cross
the Santa Barbara here and they were pretty wet!


After our hike we drove 8 miles back into Penasco to a little restaurant we had seen on the road called Sugar Nymphs.  It had such an appealing name and cute sign that it made me want to try it.  The menu was limited to mostly sandwiches for lunch so we both had green chili cheeseburgers on homemade bread with sides of steaming corn chowder.  As the afternoon was cooling off and clouding up for another rain, that warm soup felt great to our tired, chilled and hungry bodies.








David’s Stats:

Days Hiked  3        
Total Miles Hiked    18.78
Ave. Miles per Day    6.26
 
Total Elevation Gain     3,279
Ave. Elevation Gain per day  1,093




Rosy Pussytoes and pink Cindy toes...






Sunday, June 5, 2016

Hiking Around Jack's Creek


Our campsite at Jack's Creek
It's a hard life but someone has to do it...


Before departing Santa Fe we had a nice Memorial Day cookout with my cousin Carolann and her new husband Larry.  They were married just a few months ago and it was great seeing the happy couple.  Quite a feast was put on for us – grilled hot dogs and hamburgers, potato salad, green chili cold slaw (never had that before but it is New Mexico) and get this – homemade shortcake by Carolann with the best strawberries I have had this season and fresh whipped cream.  Good thing we had some serious hiking planned.

Homemade strawberry shortcake with Carolann and Larry


Our short drive the next day from Santa Fe to Jack’s Creek Campground went from clear blue skies to light rain to heavier rain then sleet and even a bit of snow as we approached the campground.  Amazing what 1500 feet of elevation gain can do where the weather is concerned!  We set up camp in a light rain and spent the afternoon listening to the rain on the RV and enjoying the beauty of the mountains.  That green chili cheese soup we planned for dinner turned out to be a very good idea as the temperature in the RV was down to 58 degrees by early evening.

Up on Round Mountain before the rain


After a chilly night snuggled in down throws (and with Maya) we woke up to a very cloudy morning but no rain falling.  We decided to toss the rain gear in our packs and go for it even though we were pretty sure rain would find us sometime during the day.  We left from the trailhead at Jack’s Creek and hiked up Round Mountain.  The trail was beautiful but steep climbing nearly 1,000 feet to a high mountain meadow.

Following the trail into a gorgeous Aspen grove



 Once we were near the top of Round Mountain the trail divided and we split off to walk the trail to Jack’s Creek.  We met a group of three backpackers (from Tyler, Texas as it turned out) coming out of the wilderness.  All of them were in their late twenties or so and one of them was suffering from the altitude and looking pretty sick.  So his buddies were hiking down with him. The rest of their group had continued on to Pecos Baldy and beyond as a five-day trip had been planned. 
Both David and I could relate to having altitude sickness as we both have endured it a few times in our younger years – your head feels like it will explode and usually you feel so sick at your stomach – not fun at all.  The only thing that helps is plenty of rest at a lower altitude.  One of the good things about growing older is the common sense it provides.  Age has benefited us with the wisdom to take it easy our first few days out when we are above 10,000 feet.   

Maya running through the meadow with muddy paws


We hiked on a bit farther but the clouds were getting heavier so we turned around before we reached Jack’s Creek and took shelter under pines and furs to eat our lunch, just in case.  On the way back to camp we ran into another group of backpackers, this time a group of about 12 high school students from the World College at Montezuma, NM, a boarding school with international students.  They were coming down after a 10-day end-of-school trip in the Pecos and we were the first people they had seen their whole time out.  Maya was quite popular and received many, many pets despite the fact that she was one muddy dog.

Iris in the rain.
The high meadows were filled with blooming iris.


Just as we were leaving the World College kids a cold rain started pelting down.  Ponchos were quickly put on and we all departed, the kids for their last night out at a campsite on Round Mountain and us for our RV.  We were so happy to have Silver waiting for us – a dry place to cook and sleep with warm, dry clothes inside.  I so appreciate our RV on rainy days.  I can remember cooking in the rain and going to sleep wet and cold too many times.  

Wild strawberries blooming along Cave Creek
It should be a good year for berries as we saw them blooming all over the mountains.


As we arrived at the trailhead we ran into our Tyler backpackers.  They were huddled under the roof of the bathroom, cold and miserable.  Their car was another 4 miles away at Irongate Campground.  David decided to take pity on them and drive them over to Irongate as it would have been a long and rainy uphill hike for them as tired as they were.  Maya and I washed off our muddy feet and headed to the RV for dry towels and clothes and started making dinner.  Did I mention how much I love Silver?


More wildflowers along the Cave Creek Trail


The next day dawned without a cloud in the sky and we planned to take it easy after our rainy, 9-plus-mile trek of the previous day.  We hiked along the Pecos River for a short while and then up the Cave Creek Trail where there actually are caves. The wildflowers were lovely near the creek which the trail followed closely.  
We reached a creek crossing but the logs didn’t look very stable and the creek was running heavy with rain and snow melt so we continued on straight.  Here the trail became much steeper and we were just thinking of turning back about the time that David slipped on the wet rocks and went tumbling.  It wasn’t a serious fall – hurt pride and a skinned elbow but being behind him and seeing it happen, it could have been so much worse.  Those rocks were jagged and slippery and David stopped sliding only a few feet before he could have plunged into the very cold waters of Cave Creek.  As it was we returned to the campground for some R & R and enjoyed the beautiful afternoon sunshine.  All's well that ends well.

Walking in fields of gold up on Hamilton Mesa


I have been so pleased that Maya and David and I too, for that matter, have been able to do the longer hikes.  I had been a little worried about Maya but she is doing great as long as we start slow and have a few rests along the way. And a day off every few days is good too, for all of us.  

A stop for lunch and rest near the top of Hamilton Mesa

Almost asleep - a nap after lunch is always a good thing


Friday we had another day of perfect weather and went for a long hike on Hamilton Mesa.  The views on the mesa of the surrounding Pecos peaks are spectacular.  Within a couple of miles, you get a good view of almost the whole Pecos Wilderness.  It was a great way to end our stay at Jack’s Creek. 

Looking north on Hamilton Mesa -- The Truchas Peaks


Saturday we were back in Santa Fe to resupply and get cleaned up as the car and the RV were pretty filthy after a few days of rain and muddy roads.  It is Sunday evening and groceries have been bought; people, dog, and RV are clean (didn’t get to the muddy car yet), mass quantities of New Mexican food have been consumed and we are ready for another trip to the forest.  We plan on staying in one of the forest campgrounds on the northern edge of the Pecos Wilderness until Friday and then we will move on to Red River.  Most likely we won’t have Internet or phone in the forest, so it will be next weekend before the next blog.  Eventually I will have more to report on than taking hikes in the forest and eating, but right now, we are really enjoying doing just that!

Green Chili Cheese enchiladas, posole, beans and sopapillas at La Choza.  Yum!



David’s Stats:

Days Hiked  3 
Total Miles Hiked    22.07
Ave. Miles per Day      7.36
Total Elevation Gain    3,519
Ave. Elevation Gain per day  1,173 







Tuesday, May 31, 2016

A Visit to the Pecos National Historical Park



The church ruins at the Pecos National Historical Park



After several days of moderate hikes in the Santa Fe National Forest, we took a short drive to Pecos, NM to visit the Pecos National Historic Park.  Over 40 years ago when David and I were dating and taking backpacking trips into the Pecos Wilderness we visited this park.  Then it was designated as Pecos National Monument but in 1990 new lands were authorized by Congress expanding the size and mission of the park and a new visitor center was built.  We were definitely overdue for another visit. 

Outer pueblo wall ruins with the Sangre de Christo Mountains in the distance


It was a cool day so we left Maya in the car while we checked out the new visitor center.  The exhibits were very well done with many pieces of pottery painstakingly put together to tell the story of life in the pueblo. Archeologist, A.V. Kidder was largely responsible for piecing this story together.  Kidder tested his theory of dating by stratigraphy as he examined the great trash mound on the pueblo’s east side.  Kidder had no sophisticated dating technology but was able to identify the occupation of the Pecos Pueblo by the changes in pottery styles and techniques. 

David checks out a kiva while Maya stands guard


After a great time in the visitor center we returned to the car to get Maya as she was allowed on the 1.25-mile self-guiding trail that winds through the Pecos Pueblo and the Mission Church ruins.  It was windy and clear on the ridge and the 360 degree views of the surrounding valley made us understand why the pueblo was built here.

Interior of the kiva
Kivas are special places of ceremony to the Puebloan peoples. 
They are located between the underworld and the world above.


The Pecos Pueblo is no longer standing like many in New Mexico but the ruins are well preserved.   And the really cool thing about this pueblo is its story.  From about 1100 the first Puebloans were building rock and mud villages in the Pecos River Valley.  Over two dozen villages rose here over the next two centuries including the ruins of the village where the Pecos Pueblo stands today.  In the 1300’s the settlement grew larger and by 1450 the pueblo had become a fortress five stories high with over 2,000 people.

Maya is concerned that I am not coming out


There is speculation about the sudden growth.  Many think that settling on the rocky ledge freed up more land to be farmed.  But also the Plains Indians began to arrive and raid about this time and the Pecos Pueblo up on the ridge offered views in every direction and an excellent defensive position.  The abundant water, rich farmland and variety of plants and animals in the valley made the Pecos Pueblo a trading force both economically powerful and adept in the arts and customs of the Plains and Pueblo tribes.  And then the Spaniards arrived…

Ruins of another kiva and the pueblo wall


We spent about an hour wandering the ruins and exploring the mission church.  The first mission church was completed around 1625 but was destroyed by the Pueblo Revolt in 1680.  The Spaniards were driven back to Mexico but returned 12 years later and in the Pecos Pueblo, they were actually welcomed back. (Not so everywhere in New Mexico.) The second smaller church was finished in 1717 and those are the ruins that are seen today.


Outer church wall and viga


This is the second National Park Service administered site that we have visited this year and the first on our summer adventure.  (We visited the Big Thicket just a few weeks before leaving Nacogdoches.) We will see how many NPS locations we visit on this 100th anniversary of the National Park Service.



Interior of church looking through portal


On Memorial Day we had a fantastic hike into the Pecos Wilderness from the Santa Fe Ski area.  We hiked the Windsor Trail to La Vega and ran into snow at about 10,500 feet!  Over 8 ½ miles and we are all moving slow this morning but we all survived and Maya even frolicked in the snow.  But we may pay today!  Hope you all had a nice Memorial Day with family and friends. 


Maya and David hit snow on the Windsor Trail in the Pecos Wilderness


We are leaving Santa Fe this morning to spend about 5 days up in the Santa Fe National Forest in a campground near the south central border of the Pecos Wilderness.  There will be no electricity, no water, no phone or Internet so we will be roughing it and doing some ‘real camping.’  We will be back in Santa Fe next weekend and back ‘on the grid.’  More later…






David’s Stats:

Days Hiked  6  
Total Miles Hiked    30.89
Ave. Miles per Day   5.15  
Total Elevation Gain     4,888
Ave. Elevation Gain per day   815








Friday, May 27, 2016

We're in Santa Fe!


Mountains and pine trees are the best!


Yay!  It seems it took long enough for us to get ‘on the road’ but we are finally traveling again.  It was a crazy few days taking exams, packing up Silver and doing everything (I hope we remembered everything) one has to do to be gone for about 3 months.


Cactus and Indian paintbrush are cool too...


When we arrived in Odessa, my dad was not well enough to travel so we didn’t make it to Ruidoso with my parents.  Still, we had a nice time hanging out with the family and eating a lot of good meals together.  Hopefully, we will get everybody to Ruidoso in August on our way back.
With dad doing a little better, we bid everyone good-bye and were officially on our way. It felt so good to be traveling again in Silver with David and Maya and the whole summer stretching ahead of us.  We arrived in Santa Fe on Tuesday and have been taking some short hikes to get our lungs used to the altitude and our legs back in hiking shape – not to mention a few trips to some of our favorite New Mexican restaurants.  After all, stomachs have to be kept in shape too!  (And we are in Santa Fe so all the food is healthy, right?)


We spent our first night 'On the Road with Maya'
at Bottomless Lakes State Park near Roswell, NM

We are all getting used to the RV ‘routine’ again.  Maya turned 12 in December and she is having a harder time getting in and out of the RV but with a little help she does fine.  I have been concerned about how the hiking will go this summer.  She has been slowing down on her walks for the past 6 months but so far on our 3 – 5 mile hikes things are going well, just a little slower than past years.  And right now David and I are not moving all that fast either although that should get better once we are more used to the altitude.

Salt cedar is quite invasive in the marshes at Bottomless Lakes SP
This plant can use up to 10 gallons of water a day!

Anyway we may not log as many miles on our feet (or our RV for that matter) on this fifth summer on the road as previous years.  For one thing we are only traveling for three months instead of the usual 6 to 8 months outside of Texas.  That being said, it is probably a good time to do our usual recap of our past year’s statistics.

The shores of Lake Superior


In 2015, we traveled from May 2 until August 30 in the Midwest – Texas to Arkansas then Missouri, Kentucky, Indiana, Illinois, Ohio, Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota, Iowa, Missouri (again) and Oklahoma before returning to Texas.  Throughout our travels we suffered many plagues of rain, poison ivy, ticks, mosquitoes, biting flies and various other ‘bite-mes’ so our hiking mileage was down compared to previous years.  Still we had a fabulous time, especially once we arrived in Michigan and we absolutely loved our time traveling the shores of Lake Superior.


David’s Stats for 2015 (out of Texas miles and hikes):
Days Hiked     67
Total Miles Hiked    266
Total Elevation Gain     32,394
Number of Wildernesses Hiked   5
Days hiked on the North Country Trail   10                                       
Days hiked on the Superior Hiking Trail   10

Miles driven on the RV   5,680
Miles driven on the Honda   6,830


Our first year out in 2012 we didn’t start until June 12 and because it was hot we headed quickly up to the Pacific Northwest and Canada.  We didn’t have our GPS so we don’t have statistics except car and RV mileage. (I do seem to remember hiking my butt off that year in the Canadian Rockies!)  In 2013 we went East and hiked many miles along the Appalachian Trail and other trails racking up over 635 miles.  In 2014 we were in the West again but started in early April and explored more of the southwest before heading to Oregon and Washington then coming back through Montana and Idaho.  Our mileage for 2014 was 610 miles. 


Gooseberry Falls in Minnesota


So 2015’s 266 miles seems pretty pathetic.  But as I mentioned it was a season of many plagues and we came back about 3 months earlier because of starting school in Nacogdoches.  Though we will only be traveling the summer months and we are all a bit slower these days I am hoping that we will at least match last year’s mileage. And being in the West we will easily top last year’s elevation.  Stay tuned and we will see!


One of our Midwest 'plagues,' biting flies...
Hopefully the West will be much kinder where flies are concerned!