Thursday, September 18, 2014

Time in the Great White North


Boom Lake, Banff National Park near Lake Louise
(one of the few days with clear weather)



We just arrived back in the United States after a really nice time in the Canadian Rockies.  Today’s weather in our campground near East Glacier, Montana is glorious Indian Summer – such a contrast to the early snows we experienced in Canada.  We were not ready for summer to turn so quickly to winter, but we were prepared.  We know from experience that any kind of weather is possible this time of year in the northern latitudes. Thankfully, it didn’t last and we are loving this beautiful, warm afternoon with flashes of fall color dotting the mountain slopes.
 

 
Bunchberry (dwarf dogwood) and birch

 
Almost three weeks ago and one week before we were to meet David’s brother and wife in Lake Louise,  we crossed the border into Canada from Roosville, Montana and drove straight to the southern end of Kootenay National Park in the Canadian Rockies.  Kootenay was the only one of the Rockies’ National Parks that we did not visit on our trip to Canada two years ago.   
 

 
Marble Canyon in Kootenay National Park
Forest is recovering from 2001 fire

 
Located on the British Columbia side of the continental divide, Kootenay was the last national park to be created in the Canadian Rockies.  More than any other of the mountain national parks in Canada, Kootenay has been shaped by fires.  Natural wildfires in the 20th century and in 2001 and 2003 have altered the park’s biology and landscape.  The forests of Kootenay are in transition from relatively newly burned areas to recovering forests to stands of old-growth trees.  Taking hikes in Kootenay is almost like taking a course on the life of a forest and seeing the transformations in process.   Beauty, inspiration, education and exercise make a great trail (although sometimes I wish for a good restaurant at the end). 

 
Takakkaw Falls in Yoho National Park


We had pretty good weather our first week in Canada. It did rain off and on most of the time we were visiting Kootenay so we kept to shorter hikes.  But our last day in Kootenay was a sunny, cool day – a perfect day for the longer hike to Stanley Glacier. 
 

Stanley Glacier from the end of the trail, Kootenay National Park
 

The Stanley Glacier Trail had been closed because the bridge across the Vermilion River washed away in a flood two years ago.  With the new bridge completed earlier this summer there were many hikers attracted to this trail.  So we didn’t have the solitude that we often enjoy but we did have a good time talking to members of a hiking club out of Calgary.  They told us about the recent fossil discoveries in the Burgess Shale beds near the end of the trail.  Most of the famous Burgess Shale fossils have been found in nearby Yoho National Park near Field, so everyone is excited about the new discoveries in Kootenay.  It was fun for us to be right there standing on the rock beds looking for fossils.

 
Harumi and Jim in front of the Chateau Lake Louise
September 10, 2014

 
Our next stop was Lake Louise in Banff National Park where we met David’s brother Jim and his wife Harumi.  Our first day together was quite nice but then surprise, snow!  We had three days of snow falling off and on with as much as 6 inches on the ground at a time.  We made the best of it and did some short walks around Lake Louise and then car touring along the Icefield Parkway to the Athabasca Glacier and also a visit to nearby Yoho National Park.  We indulged in some very good local cuisine and then all too soon, it was time for Jim and Harumi to go home.
 

 
The unexpected snow was just beautiful!

Lake Louise


The weather was supposed to be warming soon but we were weary of cold and ready to do some serious hiking again.  We thought we might have better luck if we headed south, so off we went to Waterton National Park on the Canadian side of the border from Glacier National Park in Montana.  All I can say is when you don’t have Internet and are out of range of most communications, surprises are inevitable.  We should have checked the weather…

 
David's Stats:
Days Hiked   4
Rain and/or Snow Days  4        
Total Miles Hiked   31.59   
Ave. Miles per Day      7.9
Total Elevation Gain     4,280
Ave. Elevation Gain per day   1,070




Thank goodness for a campground with electricity!


 
 
 

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