An Enchanting Stay in Santa Fe

Changing aspens near the Santa Fe Ski Basin

Driving to Santa Fe from Ft. Collins was no different from our last two long drives except we added hail into the mix of wind and rain.  Fortunately the hail was small and didn’t last very long.  And we had already slowed way down because of the heavy rain.  So there was no hail damage but Maya was fairly traumatized.  She is a pretty good ‘road dog’ but hail is just not ever going to be acceptable.  Thank goodness the worst was over in about 30 minutes and then it was mostly a slow and steady rain.  By the time we reached Santa Fe the skies were clearing and we were definitely ready for some green chili.

 

Walking in the aspen groves was almost 'impressionistic'

Santa Fe has so many things to recommend it but for us it’s about the fantastic New Mexican Food and the gorgeous outdoors.  Not that we don’t appreciate all the art, architecture, history and culture as well.  It is one of our favorite places and since it was our last stop before heading to Texas to see my parents in Odessa, we decided to stay a week and really enjoy the season.  Fall is so beautiful in Santa Fe.

Yellow and gold are the most common colors but some aspens are orange and red

 

 

We decided to stay at a commercial RV campground right in Santa Fe rather than camp in the forest.  For one thing we are still having some refrigerator issues so having electricity and staying in town close to great food made things easier.  Also, staying in town put us about half way between our two favorite hiking areas, making for easier access.  And of course staying in Santa Fe is just a lot of fun!  

Along the Aspen Vista Trail

 

I don’t know that our timing has ever been better for fall aspen color.  We have visited just before peak color or just after but we hit it on the nose this time.  The trails have been almost too colorful to be true.  The butter yellow, gold, orange and brilliant red of the aspen leaves contrasting with deep blue New Mexico skies was stunning.  Top it off with brisk mornings, warm afternoons and cool nights plus a snow one day high in the Pecos Wilderness (our 24^th wilderness this year) and you get the picture – we have been pretty much in heaven.

 

Looking up...

Or down...

Or out...  It is all beautiful!

Most days have consisted of breakfast at our RV followed by a beautiful drive to one of the trailheads from Santa Fe.  Then anywhere from a 5 to 12 mile hike and we were ready for a big New Mexican dinner and sometimes a margarita.  We had a few ‘town days’ where we goofed off, went out for breakfast and did some walking, shopping and driving around the city.  One night we met my cousin and her boyfriend for dinner in downtown Santa Fe.  All in all it was about the best time we've had in Santa Fe and a great way to finish our western adventure this year.

 

 

 

 

Even though we are at the end of our journeys for 2014 we still have a few adventures left in us.  We had a goal of visiting at least 25 wilderness areas this year and we still have a little time.  After a week or so in Odessa we will travel back across the New Mexico border and visit Ruidoso and the White Mountain Wilderness which will get us to that goal.  There are also a few wilderness areas in Texas, one in the Guadalupe Mountains and the rest in the pineywoods of East Texas.  Perhaps we can work in a Texas wilderness or two before we are done. 

 

David's Stats:
Days Hiked  6  
Total Miles Hiked   43.46  
Ave. Miles per Day      7.24
Total Elevation Gain     8,359
Ave. Elevation Gain per day  1,393

 

 

Aspen leaves are almost as much fun as snow

 

On to Ft. Collins

The Starship Enterprise
One of the amazing cloud formations we saw on our drive

Our long drive through Wyoming and into Colorado was filled with rolling plains, hundreds of pronghorn antelope, interesting clouds and of course, high winds and rain.  Lately we seem to be wind and rain magnets.  Long driving days are really exhausting and we try not to do them often.  We were so glad to arrive in Ft. Collins to calm winds and blue skies.  After a simple dinner, it was a walk for Maya and then showers followed quickly by bed.

 

 

Rocky Mountains near Ft. Collins

 

 
The next day we met some friends, Reyes and Martha from just down the road in Longmont, for a wonderful brunch at the Silver Grill in old town Ft. Collins.  Ft. Collins is such a fun city with a great downtown and it is the home of Colorado State University.  We spent two days enjoying ourselves and getting to know Ft. Collins a little better.  It is a place that we might want to live someday.

Fall leaves and red rocks, near Garden of the Gods in Colorado Springs

 

Colorado Springs was our next destination with a few hours stop in Loveland along the way to get an oil change and service on the RV.  It seems like this has been our month for car and RV maintenance.  But we are traveling a lot and must not neglect these things.

 

Garden of the Gods

I wish I could report that we got our refrigerator all fixed in Colorado Springs in record time and went off to play.  However we were not so lucky.  We are learning that dealing with routine maintenance on engines, etc. is usually pretty easy.  But things in the ‘home’ part of our RV are not always so simple.  There are not that many RV technicians out there.  Getting things diagnosed can be a challenge.  And then there is the issue of getting the parts.  They don’t have the right part and it may take weeks for it to arrive.

 

Garden of the Gods is a great place to learn to mountain climb

 

 

All in all we stayed 3 days in Colorado Springs with the second repair person finally diagnosing the problem but it would take at least 10 days to get the right part because (wouldn’t you know it) our model of RV refrigerator has been discontinued.  So instead of playing around for a few more weeks in Colorado, we decided to keep on heading to Texas and then to order the part when we get ‘home’ for the winter.

 

We did take some time to have fun in Colorado Springs between waiting to find out about our refrigerator.  Colorado Springs is another great place to visit and live.  It is much bigger than Ft. Collins but that isn’t necessarily a bad thing.  The mountains are close with Pike’s Peak and the Garden of the Gods right on the edge of the city.  We had a nice hike in the Garden of the Gods but then our last day the rain moved in and we decided it was time to move on to another of our favorite places, Santa Fe, New Mexico.

David's Stats:
Days Hiked  1/4
Total Miles Hiked   2.25
Total Elevation Gain     75

 

Balancing Rock, Garden of the Gods

 

 

 

A few days in Utah

Aspens starting to turn in the forest near Salt Lake City

Since our appointment to fix our refrigerator was a week away in Colorado Springs, we decided to stop for a few days near Salt Lake City to catch some aspen color and maybe hike in another wilderness.  The drive from Boise to Salt Lake City was a long, windy one with a thunderstorm and hard rain thrown in just for fun. To top it off, we arrived in time for rush hour traffic.  What a nerve-wracking day!   It was unbelievably busy in Salt Lake City for a Tuesday and we were very lucky to find the last spot in a commercial campground.  That was the good thing; the not so good thing was the campground was next to Interstate 15 and very noisy.

 

The Alpine Loop Road through American Fork Canyon

 

 

After a not very restful night listening to traffic, we were so ready to be away from civilization and back in the forest.  The little town of Heber City, about an hour east of Salt Lake and in the middle of the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest, seemed like it would fit our needs.  And as it turned out, it did.  We found a great campground on the edge of town with a hot tub that I came to appreciate over the next few days.

 

Aspens near Mt. Timpanogos in American Fork Canyon

 

Just down the road from Heber City was American Fork Canyon, a beautiful canyon where Sundance is located.  We visited Sundance and had a delicious lunch at the Foundry Grill.  (No Robert Redford or other movie star sightings however.)  After lunch we finished driving the road through the canyon, a.k.a. the Alpine Loop Drive.  The aspens were beginning to turn and the drive was so beautiful that we decided to come back the next day and hike some of the trails.

 

Fall leaves on the Box Elder Trail

 

Our morning hike the following day was the Box Elder Trail into the Lone Mountain Wilderness.  There had been rain (remember our drive 2 days ago) and recent snow so the trail was muddy and sloppy in places. It was also a steep trail and we did a bit of slipping and sliding.  After two miles into the wilderness we decided to turn back.  We were tired of the mud and there was a trail to Stewart Falls near Sundance that we wanted to work in that afternoon.

 

Picturesque Lake near the Mirror Lake Highway

 

The Stewart Falls Trail was much less muddy but it was also way more popular.  Where we only saw one person in the Lone Mountain Wilderness that morning, the afternoon was full of hikers to the falls.  The walk was pretty but the falls themselves were a bit of a disappointment – not much water.  Spring or early summer would be the better time to view a more spectacular falls.
 

In the snow above Lofty Lake, Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest

Lofty Lake

 

Our third day in the area we ventured a little north and east along Highway 150, the Mirror Lake Highway.  This scenic road cuts through a section of the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest passing interesting geological formations and many beautiful alpine lakes.  We enjoyed the drive stopping several times along the way before we arrived at Pass Lake where our hike began.

 
 

Following a 5-mile loop trail, we climbed steadily passing Scout Lake, Picturesque Lake and several smaller unnamed lakes.  As we neared the pass and dropped down to Lofty Lake we got into about 8 to 18 inches of packed snow.  We had a nice lunch on the south facing, snow-free shore of Lofty Lake.  Sitting on the rocks and basking in the sun, we warmed up enough to climb out of the lake basin through more snow.  The snow stayed with us until we dropped down to Kamas Lake and from there the trail was clear all the way back to the trailhead.

 

Coming down from Lofty Lake

Kamas Lake

We had a nice drive back to Heber City stopping at Mirror Lake and Provo Falls on the way.  After an early dinner and then a long soak in the hot tub, we turned in early.  The next day was to be another long one.  We were going to drive all the way through southern Wyoming to Ft. Collins, Colorado, about 7 hours on the road.

 

David's Stats:
Days Hiked   2 
Total Miles Hiked   11.98  
Ave. Miles per Day      5.99
Total Elevation Gain     3,004
Ave. Elevation Gain per day   1,502

 

 

 

Stanley, Idaho and Two Wilderness Hikes

Sawtooth Lake in the Sawtooth Wilderness near Stanley

Clouds and light rain followed us all the way from McCall to Stanley but the drive was very scenic.  We found a campground near Stanley Lake that was still open and then drove to the ranger station to check on trails and weather conditions.  The ranger told us that the trails were on the muddy side from recent rains and more rain and thunderstorms were on the way.  We were a bit disappointed that we wouldn’t have picture perfect weather, but we’ve never been ones to object to getting a little wet. 

 

Turning aspens near Stanley Lake

 

It was a cool evening so David made some ‘Chili Blanco,’ a delicious white bean, chicken and green chili soup.  Light rain was falling as we went to bed and the next morning dawned with heavily overcast skies but it was not raining.  We decided on a shorter hike in the Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness just in case those thunderstorms rolled into the area.

 

Fall grasses along the Marsh Trail, Frank Church Wilderness

 

We hiked the Marsh Trail near Lola Creek into the Frank Church Wilderness.  This area had experienced a fire in 2012 and there were areas with many blackened and downed trees.  But the rivers and the fall grasses in this part of the wilderness were so beautiful.  We thoroughly enjoyed the hike and marveled at how gorgeous everything was even though it had been burned.  I’m not sure if we are becoming more accustomed to seeing the results of fires and have accepted them as the new ‘norm,’ but I do know our thoughts about forest fires have changed.  Once we would not have really wanted to walk through a burned forest or thought it very beautiful.
 

 

 

 

When David and I were young and both visiting our first forests, it was so rare to ever see a burned forest.  Fires were put out as quickly as possible and Smokey the Bear was everywhere admonishing us to do our part to prevent forest fires.  In fact, I can’t remember ever seeing a large forest burn until we visited Yellowstone about 25 years ago.  But with warming weather in the west, recent droughts and changes in forest service fire suppression policies, we have seen the result of all too many fires.  I guess all of us must get use to a new forest now, one with fire.  

 

Maya was the perfect colors for 'camouflage' in the burned forest

After our morning hike in the Frank Church Wilderness we visited Stanley Lake and hiked a few miles on the Stanley Lake Trail in the Sawtooth National Recreation Area.  The clouds hung low and we heard rumbles in the distance, but the rain held off and we managed to finish the day without getting more than a few sprinkles on us.

 

Stanley Lake

The next day we were not quite so lucky.  We hiked in the Sawtooth Wilderness on a 10.5 mile round trip trek to Sawtooth Lake. Again the day started out with thick, heavy clouds.  The first 5 miles were dry but once we reached the lake rain started to fall.  Fortunately, it wasn’t a heavy rain, but it was cold and steady.  We ate our lunch at the lake and then headed back at a fairly brisk pace.  Sawtooth Lake and the lake next to it, Alpine Lake were both impressive and beautiful high mountain lakes.  It was a shame the weather wasn’t better or we would have lingered much longer.

The Sawtooth Mountains on the trail to Sawtooth Lake

 

Our rain gear kept us dry except for our hands.  They were so wet and cold that we almost feared frost bite, but then the rain let up and once we dried off  our hands began to warm.  As we descended from the mountains the rain gradually stopped and the last couple of miles were quite pleasant.  Even so, we were looking forward to warm showers and a hot meal back at the RV.

 

Reflections in Alpine Lake


The weather was supposed to be getting a little better as the week went on and we had been thinking of staying longer.  But we had noticed that our RV refrigerator was not cooling very well.  In fact, the last couple of days the refrigerator was less than ‘rodeo cool’ so we bought a cheap Styrofoam cooler and ice. 

 

Another view of Sawtooth Lake

To make a long story somewhat shorter, we decided to head to Boise since it was fairly close and try to get the refrigerator repaired.  Alas, it proved very frustrating.  I don’t know if hunting season was the reason or what, but every place we called couldn’t work us in for weeks.  We spent the night in Boise and David called all over Idaho, Wyoming and Colorado and nobody had openings for weeks.  Very reluctantly we gave up our plans to go to the Grand Tetons and decided to make an appointment in Colorado for the following week.  We would have time for a few stops and hikes along the way. 
 

Coming down from Sawtooth Lake in the rain and fog

 

White-bark pine, a relative of Bristlecone pine, grows near Sawtooth Lake

 

So even the carefree life can have its frustrations.  To complicate things a little more, my dad had a fall.  Fortunately nothing was broken but he is very sore and banged up.  It is probably best that we are on the way home.  Although our fall isn’t quite turning out as we hoped, we are still having a good time and count ourselves so very fortunate.  There will be more fall leaves to see on the way home, I am sure…

 

Sawtooth Wilderness - 'Before'

 'After' - a little worse for the rain...

 

David's Stats:
Days Hiked   2 
Total Miles Hiked   20.23  
Ave. Miles per Day      10.19
Total Elevation Gain     2,615
Ave. Elevation Gain per day   1,308

 

Big Lakes in Idaho

Lake Pend Oreille at Farragut State Park

Lake Pend Oreille (pronounced: pond-o-ray) in northern Idaho was our first stop in the state.   With a length of 43 miles, Lake Pend Oreille is the largest Lake in Idaho and the fifth deepest in the United States at over 1,150 feet. The area around the lake is the traditional home of the Kalispell Indians.  It is believed that a Canadian fur trader gave the lake its name.  Pend Oreille means ear pendant in French and the Kalispell Indians were known for their ear ornaments.  But it is interesting that the lake when viewed from the air is shaped almost like a human ear. 

 

We camped at Farragut State Park at the southern end of the lake.  A beautiful state park now, it was a naval training base during WWII.  Because of the lake’s great depth it was perfect for testing submarines and sonar systems.

Grasslands near the lake shore, Lake Pend Oreille

 

Our time at Lake Pend Oreille was lovely and leisurely.  Two clear and cool days were perfect for hikes along the lake shore and afternoon naps.  Wandering between the lake and the surrounding forest, we scouted the cliffs for resident mountain goats.  We missed out on the mountain goats but ducks and white-tailed deer were so plentiful that we lost count.  We also saw several hawks and a bald eagle.

 

Payette Lake from Osprey Point, Ponderosa State Park

 

 
Next we traveled just a few miles farther south to Coeur d’Alene and stayed at a campground right on the lake.  At 25 miles long, Lake Coeur d’Alene is a good sized lake itself.  Much of the city surrounds the lake shore making for a very beautiful and livable place.  It is also a great city for birdwatchers.  The lake attracts abundant waterfowl and in summer bald eagles come to feed on the kokanee salmon.

Lily Marsh, Ponderosa State Park

 

While we were visiting Coeur d’Alene we also got our car serviced and then we headed about 200 miles south to McCall in west central Idaho.  Another ‘lake town,’ McCall is nestled on the south shore of Payette Lake.  Ponderosa State Park, a 1,000 acre peninsula that juts into Payette Lake, is just minutes from McCall.  The park’s namesake, the Ponderosa pine, is the dominant tree and there are many specimens near 150 feet tall!  During our two-day stay we hiked almost the whole peninsula.  From forested lakeside trails to steep cliffs to arid sagebrush flats to spongy marsh – the diverse topography within the park was amazing.

 

Payette Lake from the Peninsula Trail, Ponderosa State Park

Only one of the park’s four campgrounds was still open and it was closing on the first of October.  Fall and cold weather comes quicker up north and we have already had to rethink some of our travel ideas because of campground closures.  Our next destination is Stanley, Idaho, a very small town between the Sawtooth and Frank Church River of No Return Wildernesses.  We have checked and many campgrounds are closed but there are a few that will be open for another couple of weeks.  It is getting time for us to head south…

 

 

David's Stats:
Days Hiked   3 
Total Miles Hiked   16.51   
Ave. Miles per Day      5.50
Total Elevation Gain     1,665
Ave. Elevation Gain per day  555