Friday, June 29, 2018

South winds of summer...


Thunderstorm rolling into Alpine


With the longest day of the year just past us, it is now officially summer although it seems like it has been so for over a month now.  We are beginning to realize that we are residents of the west and not the east.  I’m not sure where the official line between east and west exists or if there is such a designation, but it seems like it might run through Texas.  In Nacogdoches we were part of a much wetter ecosystem with many plants and most of the birds common to the eastern United States.  Now looking out my front window and seeing the stark mountains in the distance and the heat scorched earth of my front yard, there is no doubt we are in the west.


Rainbow after the storm


At the beginning of June, we were still taking our 3-mile walk in the evenings.  Most days by 8 pm it had cooled off and the breezes were picking up, if they hadn’t already been blowing all day.  But as official summer approached, the earth warmed sufficiently so that the evening ‘cool-off’ was more of a late-night affair.  We have switched our walks to early mornings and even so, we come home sweaty and ready for a shower.  But at least a walk is doable.  If we still lived in Nacogdoches we would not attempt walking that distance in summer.  The temperature might be nearly the same, but the humidity and lack of breezes would make any outdoor activity oppressive.  We do miss the green and the forests of East Texas though.  

Fading cactus flowers


Two weeks ago, the Texas Photographic Society held a conference at Sul Ross University here in Alpine.  It was great to go to talks and workshops on photography and I was able to visit with some old friends and colleagues.  I can't believe I ran into an ex-student and friend of mine that was in some of my photo classes at San Antonio College.  She and her husband live 20 miles away in Marfa now.  It never ceases to amaze me what a small world it can be. 

Mitre Peak near Ft. Davis
I went to Girl Scout Camp here many years ago...

One of our friends, Chad, was at the TPS conference and he stayed with us one night.  Our first house guest!  We had a great visit and just as promised to potential guests in one of my earlier blogs, we fed Chad at one of Alpine’s many food trucks.  

The one and only Teresa in front of her food truck

The breakfast burritos at G-Ma’s were yummy but G-Ma (a.k.a. Teresa) was the main attraction.  Teresa wasn’t all that busy, so she talked to us as we ate and we all exchanged stories about what had brought us to Alpine.  Teresa has lived all over West Texas from Presidio to Odessa, but she has been in Alpine for the last several years.  Her grandchildren call her G-Ma, thus the name of her food truck.


Placing our order

Rocks on the table keep the food from blowing away

As we ate Teresa told us story after story, but it was the one about leaving her ex-husband at the chiropractor’s office that had us dropping our burritos.  She swears she really left him there on the day she finally had enough, just drove off and never went back.  Said somebody had to straighten his ass out and she was hoping the chiropractor could do it.  Yes, Teresa can tell some good ones and the food is darn good too.

View from a nature trail at the Chihuahuan Desert Native Plant Center

We also drove to Ft. Davis while Chad was in town and visited the Chihuahuan Desert Native Plant Center and Botanical Gardens.  The center is located just a few miles east of Ft. Davis in a remote and beautiful area.  With views of the surrounding mountains, great nature trails and gorgeous plant specimens, it is a place we will be visiting frequently.  More so when it cools off a bit.

Cactus flower (Blind Prickly Pear) at Chihuahuan Desert NPC

Well, July 4th is less than a week away and this year for a change, we will not be fighting everyone else in the forest for a campsite.  We will spend the holiday in Odessa with my mom and dad.  Sixty-four years ago on the third of July, my mom and dad eloped to Juarez, Mexico and got married.  We are going to celebrate with them this year.  It will be the first time in several years that we have been home for their anniversary and the Fourth of July holiday.  It should be a fine time.

More views from the Chihuahuan Desert NPC

After all the celebrations, we plan to take off to Santa Fe and then to Colorado for a few weeks.  We will try to find some new places to visit and new adventures and I will continue to blog, at least with lots of pictures.  But the main purpose is to get cool.  As beautiful as it is, when the south winds of summer blow across the Chihuahuan Desert, it is time to head to higher elevations.

Mitre Peak




Monday, June 4, 2018

Postcards from Alpine...


Mural on the side of a building in downtown Alpine

Sunsets are beautiful here!


Here it is, the first week in June and we have been in Alpine for 6 weeks now.  Most of the boxes are unpacked and we are starting to feel settled.  But until last week, we really had not spent that much time in Alpine.  Between trips on the weekends to visit my parents and a weeklong excursion to San Antonio for annual doctors’ visits, we hadn’t spent more than 4 nights in a row here.  This week, we broke a record and can now claim 8 nights in a row!


Until a few days ago when this crazy 100-plus degree heat wave set in, it had been so pleasant in Alpine.  The days were in the high 80s and low 90s, but many days there were afternoon rains and the evenings were wonderful.  We would walk out our front door every night around 8:00 and take a long sunset stroll.  The temperatures would have dropped into the low 70s by then and the wind was cool and light.  Most nights we were able to turn off the A/C and sleep with cool breezes and the sound of far-off thunder and train whistles as we drifted into dreamland.  A couple of mornings I woke with the blanket over my head.  I had gotten chilled during the night!

Large petroglyphs in Seminole Canyon at the Fate Bell Shelter

Close up of one of the petroglyphs

Some of the smaller petroglyphs

On our way back from San Antonio a couple of weeks ago, we stopped at Seminole Canyon State Park & Historic Site for a little camping trip.  (We drove Silver to San Antonio because we had a few plumbing issues and wanted to have her checked out while our doctors were checking us out.  I am happy to report that we are all fine now.)  Anyway, back to Seminole Canyon…  I remember visiting the petroglyphs in the canyon over 25 years ago, long before this remote and rugged area became a state park.  Now there is a great campground and guided tours of some of the petroglyphs.  Much of the park has archaeological sites from ancient native cultures that lived in the area.  The geology is interesting too, not to mention all the unique desert plants.  


View of Seminole Canyon from the Fate Bell Shelter

Shaman art overlooking the canyon

Exposed fossils in the Devil's River Limestone at Fate Bell Shelter 
The long skinny shell is a Turritella, an ancient sea snail.

Unfortunately, that weekend was the beginning of the unseasonably hot weather we are now experiencing.  The sky turned hazy and our views of picturesque Seminole Canyon and views into Mexico were not very clear.  We took a guided tour of some of the petroglyphs with a wonderful guide from the Witte Museum in San Antonio. The Witte will be offering more hikes to other petroglyphs later this fall and we plan to return.  We loved the park and will be going back to hike more when it isn’t so hot.  At only a 3-hour drive from Alpine, that shouldn’t be hard to do.

There are many art galleries in Alpine,
far out in West Texas...


We’ve been taking little excursions around the city and have managed to locate most things we need.  Alpine has 3 grocery stores, one of which specializes in organic foods.  There is a farmer’s market open on Saturdays, a recycling center, a couple of hardware stores, many restaurants and food trucks, a brewery, a movie theatre and a yoga studio located upstairs in the old Granada theatre.  Alpine also has an airport, a hospital and an Amtrak station.  Ride the train and come see us! 

Amtrak station in downtown Alpine

Lots of trains besides Amtrak come through this small town


We have been trying to find the historic homes and buildings in the area and learn more about Alpine’s history.  Even though David and I grew up in West Texas and took many trips to the Big Bend when we lived in Odessa, we never spent much time in Alpine.  So, we never knew that Alpine used to be called ‘Murphyville.’  

The historic Holland Hotel
The rooms are furnished with antiques and historic photographs are on display.


One morning we had breakfast downtown (about a seven-block walk from our house) and afterward took a self-guided walking tour of Alpine.  We learned that Murphyville was a campsite for cattlemen until railroad workers and their families created a tiny town of tents in the 1880s.  For five years the little settlement grew into a dozen houses, three saloons, a hotel and rooming house, a stable, a butcher shop and even a drugstore which housed the post office. After such a dazzling spurt of growth, the townsfolk petitioned to change the name of their little community to Alpine.  Growth was very slow for Alpine until Sul Ross Normal College (now Sul Ross State University) was opened in 1920.  When Big Bend National Park was opened in the 1940s there was another spurt of growth. Today the town has a population of about 7,600 people.  It is by far the smallest place David and I have ever lived.  

I made this photo standing on our front porch after a crazy thunderstorm.
We've had some serious little storms and this one scared us a bit with all
the runoff so close to our house.  That's a trash dumpster being swept away! 


We are trying to ride out this heat until July when we hope to take off for a bit in Silver.  Today it only got to 92 and that was a relief.  But I am afraid the break in the heat is only going to last a few days.  Most likely we won’t do a lot of exploring of West Texas in this heat, but perhaps I will review the area food trucks.  We will take little day trips to Ft. Davis, Marfa and Marathon and it is still fun to eat even if it is hot. 

Dad and mom with her Mother's Day roses.
She felt well enough to go to church.


If all goes well with my parents we will head out to New Mexico and Colorado for 4 – 6 weeks in July.  Yay!  There will be some ‘on the road’ this summer.  We sure do miss our Maya, but in our hearts we will always be “On the Road with Maya…”