Leaving Colorado...

The Continental Divide Trail heading north from Wolf Creek Pass

This hike took the prize for 'Trail with the Most Wildflowers."

Our last few days in Colorado were spent in the Pagosa Springs area exploring trails and sites that we didn’t have time to see during our June visit.  Besides the Chacoan ruins at Chimney Rock, we hiked another section of the Continental Divide Trail near Wolf Creek Pass and also visited a new wilderness, the South San Juan Wilderness.  

View of spruce bark beetle damage from CDT north of Wolf Creek Pass

Dead spruce trees stretched for hundreds of thousands of acres.

Trail head warning signs

Signs were posted at many trails in southern Colorado warning of

the dangers posed by the dead spruce forests.

It has been so much fun this summer to slow down our travels and really explore south-western Colorado more thoroughly.  This area is blessed with mountains, monuments, parks, history, great summer weather and wildflowers. 

Aspen and fern on the Opal Lake Trail in the South San Juan Wilderness

Here are a few more photographs of Colorado, wildflowers still blooming…

Wildflowers along the CDT near Wolf Creek Pass

Resting after lunch near Wolf Creek Pass

Subalpine Larkspur

And more Columbines...

Mountains near Telluride

Clearing dead spruce near Slumgullion Pass to make firebreaks

Brook cress loves water

A whole field of brook cress!

David’s Stats:

Days Hiked   3       
Total Miles Hiked  11.46  
Ave. Miles per Day      3.82
Total Elevation Gain   2,100 
Ave. Elevation Gain per day  700

 

Another Interlude and A Visit to Chimney Rock

The 'chimneys' at Chimney Rock National Monument

Although some may have concluded from the long delay between blogs that Silver’s brakes gave out and we plunged down the side of a mountain on our way to Pagosa Springs, I am happy to report that is not the case!  We are safe and sound with new brake pads installed and are now in Nacogdoches attending our first week of classes. 

What a crazy month it has been!  Many things have occurred to keep me from posting blogs, some my own fault and some that couldn’t be helped.  We have done so many things the past month and there is much to catch up on, so I will make several blog posts over the next few weeks to get it all up to date.

Maya and her buddy Rocky, hanging out by the San Juan River

After our stay at Silver Thread Campground near Creede, Colorado we made our way to Pagosa Springs.  The brake light stayed on as we maneuvered the mountain passes on the way.  Wolf Creek Pass in particular was a bit scary as it is descends steeply.  We did see where a truck had not made it to the ‘Runaway Truck’ Ramp and had indeed plunged down the mountain.  We were quite happy to make it safely to Pagosa Springs.

Collared Lizard at Chimney Rock

We stayed several days in Pagosa and met friends Dustin, Melissa and their Australian Shepard, Rocky for a day before they headed back to the Austin area.  We had a cookout at our campground along the San Juan River topped off with ice cream and homemade cookies.  The dogs got reacquainted and we all had a great evening. It was over way too soon and we were sad to see them go the next day.  (I think they were a bit sad to be leaving the cool mountains for hot Texas…)

Melissa and Dustin

Going back to Texas...

During our stay in the Pagosa Springs area we visited Chimney Rock National Monument, located about 20 miles to the west.  One of the newest of our National Monuments administered by the National Forest Service, Chimney Rock was proclaimed a National Monument in September 2012 for its unique archaeological structures, pottery and artifacts.  Naturally formed twin pinnacles that resemble chimneys stand above the sight that was home to the Ancestral Puebloans of over 1000 years ago.

Ruins of some of the living quarters of the settlement

Settled by native peoples of the Chacoan culture, mysteries and legends about Chimney Rock abound.  As the highest in elevation and most remote community tied to Chaco Canyon in northern New Mexico, Chimney Rock evokes many questions.  Why did the Chacoan people, primarily an agricultural culture, come to this remote and harsh place where growing crops was very difficult? What, if any, significance, did the landmarks of the ‘chimney’ formations have for the Chacoans?   Why did they come and why did they leave?

We had an excellent guide that was an archaeology student in Durango.

This structure is believed to be the astronomy room.

David and I have always wanted to visit Chaco Canyon and have yet to do it, so we were thrilled to see this site with its hundreds of structures including a Chacoan Great House Pueblo, Great Kiva and the everyday multi-family dwellings of the common people.  Many structures on the site have been excavated and stabilized for viewing.  The site is restricted to tours only so it is well preserved with little damage. 
 

Ruins of a kiva with San Juan Mountains in the distance

Guided Interpretive tours are led by volunteers who walk visitors through the grounds to see the structures (the monument is not well-funded yet, so volunteers provide most of the services – Yay, volunteers!).  We had an excellent tour guide and spent about 2 hours walking the site. 

Like Chaco Canyon, it is believed that many of the structures at Chimney Rock are tied to astronomical events, especially those having to do with moon cycles.  So many questions may never be answered but archaeologists are now seeking help from today’s Puebloan cultures of the four corners area.  Many of today’s Puebloan peoples are believed to be descended from the Chacoans and have similar rituals and ceremonies that may shed light on some of Chimney Rock's mysteries.

Standing on the walls of the Great Kiva, believed to be where some 

of the special ceremonies relating to the moon cycles were held.

Maya spent time her time at the monument in a kennel in the shade of a large pinyon pine tree while we explored the ruins.  Chimney Rock is very friendly to traveling pets, providing shady outdoor enclosures free of charge for visitors to the monument.  Maya was a very good girl (except for a little digging in the dirt) and the volunteers enjoyed hanging out with her until we returned.

Young Native American on our guided tour making a 'selfie'

The day was sunny and quickly becoming hot so we returned by noon to our campsite outside of Pagosa Springs for lunch and a nap.  We had to rest up for our big hike on the Continental Divide Trail the next day.

The stone work had recently been restored on the astronomy room.

The Chaco Indians were excellent masons.

David’s Stats:

Days Hiked   1     
Total Miles Hiked    1.50     
Total Elevation Gain  350  
 

Wilderness Hikes near Lake City, CO

One of several falls along Cataract Creek in the Handies Peak WSA

As I mentioned in my previous blog, the area around Lake City is incredibly rich with things to do if you like the outdoors.  Lake City is located in the middle of three national forests (Grand Mesa-Uncompahgre-Gunnison N.F.) and then the Rio Grande N.F. is a few miles away across the Continental Divide.   Also the Continental Divide Trail & Colorado Trail run through the area.  There are four wilderness areas nearby (Powderhorn, Uncompahgre, La Garita and Weminuche Wildernesses) and two wilderness study areas (Redcloud Peak and Handies Peak Wilderness Study Areas) that may someday become full-fledged wilderness areas.  Then there is the varied and rugged Alpine Loop Road with its Ghost Towns, mines, history, beauty and oh, I almost forgot – San Cristobal Lake, the second largest natural lake in Colorado and the reason for Lake City’s name and location.  And probably, I still left something out!  Lots to do for sure…

 

David signs us in the 'book' as we enter the Handies WSA

Columbine girls...

We spent seven days near Lake City and hardly scratched the surface in our explorations.  You know us, we mostly hiked, but we did drive as much of the southern part of the Alpine Loop Road as our car allowed.  We also enjoyed a nice rest/town day where we strolled around Lake City and had dinner out.  Two of the hikes we took, one in the Redcloud Peak WSA and one in the Handies Peak WSA, had trailheads along the Alpine Loop Road which gave us more opportunities to check out the sites along the road and look for moose.  The Lake Fork of the Gunnison River and San Cristobal Lake are next to the Alpine Loop Road and moose are often sighted here.  Luck was with us and one day we did see a moose as we were driving back to our campground in the Gunnison N.F.

Moose with antlers in velvet

Along Silver Creek in the Redcloud Peak WSA

 

Sunshine Peak, one of the '14,000 footers' that we could have

climbed from the Silver Creek Trail if we had been 10 years younger.

While we hiked in the Uncompahgre Wilderness and the Redcloud Peak WSA we learned a little about an endangered butterfly that is only found (as far as anyone knows) in these two places.  The Uncompahgre Fritillary Butterfly is extremely rare, lives at or above timberline and uses the snow willow as its host plant.  Research is being conducted in both areas to learn more about this illusive butterfly.

We didn’t get above timberline in the Uncompahgre Wilderness but we sure did in the Redcloud Peak.  Though we saw many butterflies we were unsuccessful in spotting the endangered Uncompahgre Fritillary.  But we did see pikas.  They were ‘whistling’ and darting around and for a change, we actually spotted them.  We counted over 13, although it is possible that we may have counted the same one twice as they tend to pop up and then disappear and then pop up again in a different place.  As I have said, pikas are well camouflaged in their rocky habitat, so it was a real treat to see 13!  I didn’t fare as well getting photos of them.  I snapped a few, but I’d have to circle where they were in the photos or they couldn’t be seen.  But seeing the pikas made the long, rocky hike in the Redcloud Peak WSA well worth the effort.

Pika habitat, near timberline on rocky, talus slopes

The only pika photo I was able to get that you can kind of see a pika in it.

Though we wanted to stay longer, Silver’s (our RV) brake light had come on while we were driving to Lake City.  We checked our manual and called the nearest Sprinter dealer which was in Santa Fe.  It appears new brake pads are needed.  We have more than a few mountain passes between us and Santa Fe but the dealer assured us we weren’t in imminent peril.  Still, we didn’t want to push our luck and decided to slowly start making our way towards Santa Fe. 

Entering the Uncompahgre Wilderness on the Big Blue Trail

Along Big Blue Creek, Uncompahgre Wilderness

We saw a moose here too, but it was a far away.

From Lake City, we drove about 40 miles to Silver Thread Campground near Creede in the Rio Grande N.F.  Our brake light did not come on during this drive and that was encouraging, but it was a short drive and David drove slowly and carefully.  There were two nice waterfalls nearby, one of them just a short walk from our campsite.  We saw them both and made it back to camp just in time for a noisy thunderstorm that cooled temperatures considerably.  After Maya calmed down and the thunderstorm was over, the rest of our night was blissful…

North Clear Creek Falls in the Rio Grande N.F.

South Clear Creek Falls in Silver Thread Campground, Rio Grande N.F.

David’s Stats:

Days Hiked   4 
Total Miles Hiked   18.42  
Ave. Miles per Day    4.61 
Total Elevation Gain  4,009  
Ave. Elevation Gain per day  1,002

Cataract Canyon Trail lined with arnica in bloom

More amazing columbines, these the palest of light blue, almost white

Along the Great Divide...

The Continental Divide Trail on Snow Mesa

From Montrose and the Black Canyon of the Gunnison we climbed back up almost 3,000 feet to get cooler in Lake City, Colorado.  It seems we’ve been going up and down a lot this summer, but that is what happens in mountains.  Lake City is a cute, historic mining town that is now a big tourist attraction and seems to be quite popular with Texans.  Almost everyone we met was either from Colorado or Texas. 

The Colorado Trail runs mostly concurrent with the

Continental Divide Trail from Durango to Denver.

We stayed in Lake City for a couple of days but soon moved on to a forest campground about 8 miles outside the city on the scenic Alpine Loop, a mostly dirt, high-clearance and sometimes 4WD only road that is a favorite of the adventurous.  There are so many things to see and do along this 200-plus mile road that it could take all summer to truly explore the area.  We spent some time seeing the parts of the road and trails we could get to in our high-clearance, but only 2WD Honda.  I will tell you all about these adventures in my next blog, but the first trail we hiked when we arrived in Lake City was a section of the Continental Divide Trail (CDT).

The beautiful American Basin on the Alpine Loop Road near Lake City

We had been wanting to hike sections of the CDT all summer but this was the first time we had a good opportunity.  About 10 years ago, we hiked a few sections of the CDT in New Mexico and Utah but had never hiked the trail in Colorado. The Continental Divide Trail runs from Mexico to Canada and like the Appalachian Trail in the east and the Pacific Crest Trail in the west, it is a huge accomplishment to thru-hike these cross country trails and usually takes from 6 to 8 months.

A great earth slide near Slumgullion Pass called the 'Slumgullion Earthflow'

The side of the mountain flowed down the valley about 700 - 800 years ago damming

the Lake Fork of the Gunnison River to create San Cristobal Lake near Lake City. 

From Lake City, we drove south about 12 miles on Colorado Hwy 149 through Slumgullion Pass to Spring Creek Pass where the CDT crosses the highway. We decided on taking the northbound section of the trail going east as this part climbed above timberline to Snow Mesa and we thought the views might be great from the top of the mesa.

Now that is a serious cairne or trail marker. 

No doubt about whether we were on the trail or not. 

At the pass, we met a hiker that had been out 3 days of a 16-day backpacking trip.  His spirits were very high and it was fun to talk to him.  He said that water had been a bit of a problem for him as the section he had just hiked was not near any reliable rivers.  He had been melting snow for water but was very happy to get water at Spring Creek Pass. 

Penstemon glaber or mountain beardtongue on the CDT near Spring Creek Pass

Part of the Continental Divide Trail in Colorado is also shared by the Colorado Trail which runs from Durango to Denver.  Many hikers tackle this trail every year as it only takes about 3 to 5 weeks to accomplish.  As we started our steady climb to Snow Mesa, we began to feel the altitude again.  The trail started at 10,898 feet and climbed to well over 12,000 feet -- the highest we have climbed this year.  It shouldn’t, but it always surprises me how much harder it is to breathe when we are hiking above 10,000 feet.

One of the more the more rocky trails we have walked on  in a while

Thank goodness it wasn't all this rocky!

After about an hour, we reached a very rocky and steep talus slope and footing became a bit treacherous.  We took it slow and easy for ourselves as well as Maya.  We didn’t want any more hurt feet.  But there was another reason for us to slow down – we had entertainment.  Shrill whistling cries came from the rocks all around us.  Pikas, little rat-size hares that live in talus slopes near timberline, were all around us.  Usually you hear them and hardly ever see them as they are tiny, fast and well camouflaged in their rocky habitat.  They spend all summer gathering and stashing grass bundles.  Then when winter comes, pikas don’t hibernate, they tunnel through the snow to their 'stashes' of grass and munch away.

I saw this pika as he scampered out into a grassy area.

There was only a moment to snap before he was gone but I

felt lucky to get him at all...

We were fortunate to see several pikas on this hike.  Maya was going crazy looking for them after they ‘whistled.’  She didn’t like walking on the rocks that much, but the pikas gave her lots of excuses to stop and smell and search.  I even managed to get a few pictures but as I said, they blend in so much with the rocks that only one photo turned out very well at all.

Almost there!  Snow Mesa is just over the rise.

Maya wants to go back and hunt for more pikas.

Once we finally climbed over the top and were on Snow Mesa, our ankles needed a rest and we were ready for lunch.  But once again, our efforts payed off and we were on top of the world.  Snow Mesa was one seriously huge mesa, stretching for miles and filled with tiny flowers and mountain views in every direction.

Finally on top!

Alpine flowers -- tiny but profuse.

With the short growing season, flowers have to bloom quickly

so they don't grow very big or tall.

We spent about an hour on the mesa, hiking around, having lunch, resting, trying to ID the wildflowers and enjoying feeling like we were alone on top of the world.  It was a fantastic experience.  Eventually, we left the top of the world for life at lower elevations but it was quite a hike and quite a day on Snow Mesa and the Continental Divide. 

David and Maya getting ready for lunch on Snow Mesa

Alpine sunflower

David’s Stats:

Days Hiked      1
Total Miles Hiked   4.81  
Total Elevation Gain 1,410

Highest Elevation (so far this trip)   12,313   
  

Alone at the top of the world -- that is what it felt like!

Going back down that rocky talus slope was more tricky than climbing up...

Alpine Forget-me-not