Mountain Spirits and Cliff Dwellers

Caves protect the dwellings built by Mogollon Indians between 1276 - 1287

The Gila National Forest is not only rich in scenic beauty and solitude; it is a place of spirits.  Pit homes of prehistoric peoples have been dated to 550 CE.  Many people have walked through this forest since then – from the Mogollon Indians that built the cliff dwellings to the Chiricahua Apache to Spanish and Mexican explorers then Anglo miners, homesteaders and soldiers.

The geology of the area created many riches – the Gila River and its floodplains, plentiful hot springs, a variety of wildlife and a wealth of minerals. No wonder so many people have been attracted to the Gila through the ages.

The preservation of these ruins is amazing!

 
We visited the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument after it had rained most of the night on our third day camping in the forest.  The rain was clearing out but we still had drizzle as we arrived at the trail to Cliff Dweller Canyon.  There had been a small rock slide caused by the rain and part of the trail was closed.  Luckily we were still able to go up to see the dwellings.  The trail climbs steeply 180 feet above the canyon floor and the rain made it a slippery walk in places and there were some deep puddles of water to navigate.  Rounding the last curve and catching site of the dwellings made it all worthwhile. 

Inside Cave 5

Thanks to the natural protection of the caves, the dwellings are beautifully preserved.  We roamed the six caves and listened to a ranger interpret the site.  It is believed that 10 – 15 families lived in these caves with about 46 rooms.  But they only lived there a few decades.  Why did they go to so much trouble building their remarkable homes only to abandon them a short time later?  No one knows for sure but cycles of drought have been common in the Southwest and then as now, people have had to cope.  Perhaps they were no longer able to sustain themselves when water became scarce.

The sun started to come out as we headed down the trail.  We spent the rest of the day exploring the visitor center and surrounding areas.  I didn’t know that Geronimo was born near the headwaters of the Gila River.  His family band, Be-don-ko-he of the Chiricahua considered the Gila their homeland.  

One thing I wish I’d made time for was a soak in one of the many hot springs along the Gila River.  Some are commercial but there are several along the river in the forest – the cost of a soak is only a few miles walk. 

Looking down into the canyon from inside Room 5

   

The apple trees were in bloom!