Sunset on Lake Superior from the City Campground in Ashland |
After
an easy two hour drive from the Porcupine Mountains in Michigan we arrived in
Ashland, Wisconsin which is nestled along the south shore of Lake Superior’s
Chequamegon Bay. We were lucky to get
one of the last camping spots at the city campground right on the bay and just
in time too, the rain had started. It
was a gentle rain, but cold, taking the temperatures down to the high
50’s. We settled in and then went for a
spin around Ashland grabbing some lunch and stopping at the Northern Great
Lakes Visitor Center, a very cool visitor center with nature trails and
interactive exhibits about the ecosystems, history and culture of this
fascinating area.
Armed
with loads of information about the surrounding nature-watching opportunities,
we spent the rest of the afternoon deciding what to do next. With so many hiking trails, waterfalls,
beaches and the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore nearby it was hard to decide
but we settled on moving about 30 miles south to Two Lakes Campground in the
Chequamegon-Nicolete National Forest.
Maya relaxes on the picnic table... |
We
have not been doing much ‘boon-docking’ or powerless camping this summer as we
have been staying in state parks and city campgrounds and they usually have
power. So it was fun to be back to
hauling water, going to bed soon after sunset because the only light is the
campfire or your flashlight, limiting use of electronic devices because you
can’t charge them and having no phone or Internet. But the best thing was the dark skies with no
lights around to dim the stars.
Our
campsite at Two Lakes was just yards from Lake Owen, the biggest of the lakes. There was only one other camper on our loop
and he was a very quiet fisherman. It
was so peaceful and probably the most tranquil camping experience we have had
this season. Nothing but the loons to
disturb us and we loved listening to them.
There
were two national wildernesses nearby, one being less than half a mile from our
campsite with the North Country Trail traversing both of them. We took a short ‘feeder’ trail just a few
hundred yards from our campsite that intersected the North Country Trail and
within three-quarters of a mile we were hiking in the Porcupine Lake Wilderness. We didn’t see another soul on the trail and
passed by several small lakes before reaching Porcupine Lake. We enjoyed lunch overlooking the lake from a
small hill we climbed. Maya took a swim
and then we headed back to camp for showers, dinner, a beautiful evening sunset
on the lake and more loons.
Porcupine Lake with water lilies |
The
next day we drove about 15 miles north and hiked in the Rainbow Lake
Wilderness, which was established in 1975. Among the unique features of this wilderness
are the numerous narrow gauge railroad grades that were used for log hauling in
the early 1900’s. We hiked on the North
Country Trail which follows parts of these old grades. You could almost hear the sounds of the log
trains chugging up the grades hauling the timber to Lake Superior. It was a little warmer for this hike and also
the terrain was boggier so there were more insects. The head nets came in handy once again.
After
our wonderful time in the forest we had hoped to either stay a couple more days
in Ashland or at the nearby Copper Falls State Park but both were filled up for
the weekend. We are finding that camping
along Lake Superior is a little tricky on weekends. Many places do not take reservations so you
have to hit it just right as someone is leaving to get a spot. The places that do take reservations are
booked up months in advance. Alas, we
weren’t lucky this time and missed seeing Copper Falls. But there are more things to see than we will
get to anyway, so we just headed on down the road for the Apostle Islands.
David’s Stats:
Days
Hiked: 3
Total Miles Hiked: 19.77
Ave. Miles per Day: 6.59
Total Elevation Gain: 2,168
Ave. Elevation Gain per day: 723
Total Miles Hiked: 19.77
Ave. Miles per Day: 6.59
Total Elevation Gain: 2,168
Ave. Elevation Gain per day: 723
Maya in Porcupine Lake |
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